May 12th, 1875

My dear Lizzie

Glen got away early this morning taking the Mail with him. The morning passed very quickly and busily. Major Walsh starts today at one o’clock and of course there are many things to get ready.

Mr. McDougall came in today with his Red River carts loaded with robes and skins. There were 28 carts and 2 large wagons. He is on his way to Benton, taking his skins to Manitobah down the Missouri River as far as Bismarck, from there to Moorehead and Garry. Formerly the road was direct across the plains from Bow River to Garry but the dangers and constant watchfulness required rendered it unpleasant and unsafe. So they are now about to try this plan.

Mr. David [?] McD. the merchant and not the Missionary – took his wife along with him. She has not been well and he thinks the change will do her good. I did not see her face, it was hidden by a big sunbonnet.

B – Troop finally started about 2 P.M. They go so far as Fort Kipp this evening – and pass on tomorrow to Whoop Up – cross the St. Mary’s River and camp to await further orders and also to wait the arrival of provisions by Conrad’s train.

May 4th

Your letter is dated March 27th. I did not have time to read it through last night – the candle went out before I had finished and left me to go to bed in the dark as I had no other candle. Yes dear, I recollect going to St. Luke’s that night and also how proud and pleased your Father was at being able to carve again after his long rest [?].

I did not get letters on either the 26th 27th or 28th. You have evidently taken my permission for granted – in regard to my letters. I suppose it would do no good and only make you uncomfortable if I were to write and tell you not to do anything of the sort. However the letters are yours and you are at liberty to [do?] with them what you please. It may do good (if they print them) to me when I go South to practice to have a name made for me.

Poor little economical girl – will you tell me how much you managed to live on this year? However it is good practice. For you know you are to live with a poor poverty stricken sawbones – who will have to work hard to get enough to keep body & soul together.

I am much obliged to Miss Cameron and I appreciate her love. Will you give her mine? I am going to write to Mannie soon – but would rather have you give it – for putting it in your hand makes it seem as tho’ it were being given to you. Young Balty [?] must be a delectable kind of person. I should like to hear him sing – and see you playing his accomp. Kate Hard[..?]’s friend Mr. Gaston is he not a lawyer, a young man who has a large nose and brass glasses. If he does I think I know him – he is a decent chap.

How horribly untidy you must have looked and how absurdly awkward a position to be in – I don’t wonder at your laughing. I am really grateful to Mr. Langt[…?] and other friends for remembering me so kindly. Whatever you do is right ergo [?] I don’t seriously object (if you don’t) to your copying my letters to you. So don’t fret old girl.

How glad you must have been to have your Father with you at dinner and I can easily imagine how glad he must have been at the change. By the by what is the name of that eating house on Jordan Street. Your Father used sometimes to take his dinner there. I have been trying to tell some of the officers about the place and I cannot recollect the name. Phantom Pharaoh Parlor are the nearest I can come. I received some Can. Ill. News [Canadian Illustrated News]. I looked for you in the Ball at the Philharmonic, but failed to recognize you – where were you sitting.

I am glad that you have received my letter of Feb. 21st, I sent that as I thought by Glen – and in a day or two sent others. I suppose that you have received them ‘ere this. Mrs. Glen is the most civilized woman in this part of the North West Territories. Mr. David McDougall has his wife at Bow River but she is over a hundred miles from here. I have not seen her.

Yes I do some good – I do not make the poor Indians pay anything – and am called a fool by the other officers, but it seems a shame – I have made over fifty dollars from outsiders. So that is something to the fore. As the population becomes denser so I may hope to make more.

No one got so many letters as I did – in fact they are all jealous of me and every man that comes from Benton, they all say to him : have you letters for anyone else except the Doctor. Fort Shaw is in Montana Territory on Sun River – it is very nearly the same distance from us as Ft. Benton.

Your argument about Mannie’s concert is not very good. You get out of the gate post argument by saying or implying that he is conceited because he is a man and not a boy. Are all men conceited and are all boys exempt? I hope for your sake that Miss Taylor’s friendship has not cooled towards you – on account of foolish speeches – or on any other account.

Your photo was good. But there is something about it I do not exactly like – but it is as dear to me as tho’ it were a better picture.

Easter Ball ! I should think I did recollect it – and have you your old programme? If you have – just look at it and you will see some marks on it- some with names written over them.

Feb. 1st 1875

Capt. Winder came back last night about 11 o’clock. The arrival of two or three wagons loaded with robes from the North of us, was reported to Col. McLeod who had information that these robes had been obtained by trading alcohol for them. He sent down accordingly and put a guard over them and this morning Mr. Weatherwaxy, the proprietor of the robes, was called to answer the charge of trading whiskey. As witnesses we called in the teamsters who brought the robes down. They proved nothing conclusive, and now Capt. Crozier is getting ready to go off tomorrow morning to this post on the Bow River to get material witnesses. Meanwhile the unfortunate robes have been detained and will be held until the Innocence of Mr. Weatherwaxy is proven, which I do not think will be the case. This affair has quite entertained us. It has given us a fresh subject to talk about.

Fort MacLeod [ctd]

Nov. 2. Yesterday evening I took a short walk – but it was very cold – the thermometer being below freezing. We have been told time and again that this snow would only last for a day or two but now it has been on the ground for more than a week & the weather is getting colder and at the same time we hear stories of the extreme cold of winter which beat all that we have hitherto heard. At one time it was a most beautiful climate quite fairy like – now it beats that of Manitoba for extreme cold. It is strange what stories are told. My sick report for a day or two was very large no less than 26 being upon it – more than one sixth the whole strength of the force it has however dwindled down to a much smaller number only 12 this morning and 4 of them able to return to their duty. I wonder that more of the men are not sick – what with tramping around in the snow and slush in moccasins full of holes or boots without soles and sleeping in the cold tents. They must be pretty good men not to come in. When I come back to you I will be a hardy veteran and what is worse and awkward boor. I am sure I will have forgotten how to behave myself. I had at Fort Benton a slight inkling of how much I had forgotten and now with perhaps three years of loneliness and without womans’ refining influences can you imagine a more pitiable object than myself stuck down in a ladies drawing room? Don’t let us look so far forwards – unless you promise to take me under your protecting wing and before my appearance again in society teach me all the little kindly mannerisms of good behavior so I will not bring disgrace upon you by suddenly being turned loose. Very nearly four months of the thirty-six have gone by – that is about one ninth of the whole time – which leaves only eight ninths to be gone through. Is that not a great deal shorter than three years? I do not now even expect to get a leave of absence during the summer. If Kittson and the remained of the force come up next summer – I will probably be left at the fort with any sick there may be – or I may be moved up to Fort Edmonton or to the Bow River at old Bow Fort or anywhere that a new post may be established. So it will be good bye to all my big tour dreams. I must say good bye for the present. I don’t know when this will go – and will add a few lines before it does.

Your own

Barrie

Fort Benton September 24th 1874

Dearest Lizzie

It is now a long time since I wrote to you. I am glad to say that I still continue as well as ever and are getting stronger & fatter every day. I never was better in any life. I am brown as an Indian. My nose I firmly believe to be made after the fashion of an onion, the successive layers of skin that have peeled off would make a bushel of onions. We have pushed on from the Cypress Hills, sometimes with water sometimes not – grass was every where scarce – the weather is as fine as weather could be. On the last of September I purchased a horse, large, well formed, black, and have given him the high sounding title of “Satan” at one time he was the finest horse in the force – his only vice that he shied. Poor fellow what with no oats no grass no water – I am afraid he is a gone horse. He carried me very well to the Sweet Grass Hills – and is now quietly grazing. He is gentle knows his name & will follow me like a dog. Our choice of guides was most unfortunate not one of them knew the country through which we passed, our course was run by the compass & Palliser’s map – whichs not correct – we struck the South Saskatchewan a day sooner than we expected, the guide told us it was the Forks – the Bow & Belly Rivers – we knew better – four or five days after this we did strike the Bow River – in fact went beyond it & it was by accident that we discovered it – it is a lonely desert place one island with a few trees on it – high banks and not a soul near it – no grass – no road – we travelled 15 or 20 miles up the Belly River and sent a party up the Bow River for 80 miles – they found a party a Indians on the war path – put no fort[,] no road[,] no whiskey smugglers[.] we then retraced our steps and went south & struck the Boundary line at the Sweet Grass Hills or 3 Buttes. Here we were to pass the winter – two troops went on to Garry & two to remain and build huts for the winter & Col. French, Major McLeod & myself came down with a few carts to Fort Benton to get supplies. Our plans have slightly changed since we came here. We will now probably winter somewhere on the Belly River. Your letters if directed to me at Fort Benton will reach me – we will have a mail about once a month, perhaps not quite so often. I believe there is a settlement of Half Breeds near where we will be stationed & I can get them to make moccasins etc. for me. The Col. found a letter here for him directing him to make his headquarters at Fort Pelly – we will be much better off than they. One day while travelling towards the Buttes, I went off the line of march to hunt. I got quite lost – did not know where the trail was could see nothing but the bleak dreary wilderness – my companion a little dog had left me. I climbed a hill & looked out then another then another could see nothing the Buttes I could see - & had determined to make for them a matter of about ten miles. I came to this determination and though I would like some dinner so I shot at an antelope and missed him and hunting after him I saw what I thought was a heard of buffalo near a lake. I made for that and found the train stopping for dinner – they were just moving off. I got no dinner but was only too thankful to get in to mind that. I felt so lonely out on the prairie that I felt justified in opening your letter and my darling I can only thank most fervently the good God who put the thought of writing it in your head. You have no idea [(]can have none[)] of the immense comfort it was to me. You know I carry your little testament with me always. I seldom have time in the mornings to read it and at night we have no candles so on the march I get ahead of the troops sit down & read until they come up. I have looked at your dear handwriting again and again, but have never opened the envelope until then on the prairie lost and alone. Tell Mannie Cameron if he writes to direct to Fort Benton. I want you to ask him a question or two for me. No.1 Where is the supply of Sulphate of Alum obtained for the United States and Canada to what uses is it applied & is it expensive?

I must close before I have finished half of what I wish to say but the mail closes at 9 o’clock and it now wants but a few moments of that. We saw on our way down here swarms of Buffalo more than 50000 in one herd the plains for miles as far as we could see were black with them – we passed right thro’ their midst.

Capt. Miles wished me to say that he would like his wife to know he is well and on his road back to Fort Garry (as he thinks) – give my love to your Father Mother and all – Remember me to the Slotesburgs & give my kind regards to the Camerons.

Goodbye my darling Lizzie.
Yours forever
Barrie.

Cypress Mountains, August 27, 1874

My dearest Lizzie

My last to you was from Old Woman’s creek where we formed a cripple camp leaving there all the men & horses unable to go on and the surplus stores – we have journeyed on meeting with no more Indians but two days after leaving there we met a party of traders amongst whom was a Roman missionary who is on his way to Edmonton where I suppose I will meet him again, he is a tall skeleton of a man with the crown shaved but hair about half an inch long & a beard moustache & whiskers of six months growth on clad in a rough priestly garb he has been in this country for 19 years – he could converse in English & French but was frequently at a loss for a word. He knows Indian best – we had a rainy night once – the tent leaked and I was on the rainy said – consequently before the night was over I found myself in a pool of water. I moves and got in a bigger pool I moved back & went to sleep covering up my head & throwing my water proof sheet over me as well as possible. I was thoroughly wet but so with that I slept soundly all night long. My clothes were all wet in the morning which was the worst. However I suffered nothing more than the personal inconveniences and that was all over as the sun rose. We are now in the country of the Buffalo and it will not be long before we see a great many – we have come across numerous dead ones – some that have been killed within a month – but as yet no living ones. On Saturday last I gave back the horse I had been riding as it was a worn out plug ugly, scarred & fearfully frightened. I found that if I kept it – I should never get another and would in all probability be asked to purchase it – so I took to walking again on Saturday I walked twenty-two miles and on Monday I walked 25 and on Tuesday 15. The last was the hardest I did it all on a stretch – although part of the mountains. I was dreadfully thirsty & nor near any wagon – to get a drink. But happily I found a small spring in one of the many ravines. I tell you I was thankful & I enjoyed myself most thoroughly. We had our first deer today. It was killed by our guide a halfbreed. We are camped now in a large valley between two ridges of the Hills – by the side of the small lake – there is not much grass and the water is hard to get at – we are obliged to wait in this neighbourhood for a time as McLeod then Ass’t Commissioner has gone off to get more oats for the horses. We got to this place on Tuesday about 12 o’clock & have been camped here since. My watch or rather your watch nearly came to grief yesterday. I had put my coat & vest on one of the carts and was walking in my shirt sleeve. My watch was in my vest pocket the vest fell off the cart & several cart wheels passed over the vest but fortunately the watch escaped the buttons on the vest were all crushed. My health bears up wonderfully well. I have nothing to complain of in that tone except my appetite which is voracious causing me to desire to eat more than is good for me. I manage to get enough to live upon very comfortable & have gained 3 lbs in weight since I joined the force, 3 lbs a month will make 36 lbs a year, will make 108 lbs in 3 years so if an enormous man – rough mannered in short sunburnt & weighing 248lbs comes at the expiration of 3 years to see you you will know me by that – and also by a cut on the joint of my right thumb. So you must look carefully so as to be able to recognize me when I do come back. This is the greatest country for winds – the wind blows with such unobstructed violence pushing along – whistling among the tent guys – and causing the tents to flap and shake till one would think they would come down every moment. What forcibly reminds one of that is the flickering of the candle by which I am now endeavouring to write – every now and again I put my hand in my pocket for a match as the candle has apparently gone out – but it generally flares up again. Did I tell you that Chapman and I have been separated our little square tent which we inhabited together has been given to another set and we turned over to other tents. My tent mates are Capt. Brisebois Lt. deFaut Capt of cavalry in the Yankee Army – also an officer in the Popal Louaves – a Frenchman & Roman Catholic with his hair cropped short it stands up like a wire scrubbing brush – he is about a medium height and strong with a neck like a bull dirty bad tempered very nervous. The other is a young fellow about my age from Cornwall. His name is Allen – he is quiet and rather good looking – he knows a Wood Jarvis & others from Cornwall. Brisebois is from Sherbrooke and also knows lots of my old school fellows. It will not be long now before we are at Bow River at every halting place the Col. takes an observation and trys to find out where we are – but he cannot make out exactly our long. He makes us here to be north a few miles of the 50º Lat. we have been obliged to come this far north to avoid going over the Cypress Hills. According to Palliser’s map we have yet 160 miles to go but Palliser’s map has been proved to be so incorrect that we are uncertain how far it really is – the guides do not appear to know any more about it than we do. And after the Bow River I have over 200 miles north to go to arrive at Fort Edmonton. The officers who are going there have been talking of getting up a mail during the winter – each one to subscribe so much – hire a halfbreed & team of dogs – send down to Fort Garry & have him bring back what then is there for us – and if the Government does the same & the Hudson’s Bay Jackets and they do not all come together that will be three mails during the winter and not only one.

Camp Old Woman’s Creek, August 15th 1874 [ctd.]

As you see I have succeeded. Dr. Kittson was kind enough to lend me some. He has one of those magic inkstands pour in some water at one end & it comes out at the other a beautiful black ink. They are very convenient. Our guide who came in last evening brought a rumor from Wood Mountain that the Boundary Commission store at White Creek has been robbed by a band of Sioux Indians. Also that Capt. Cameron on his way to Wood Mountain had found five or six bodies laying exposed along the roadside scalped one was the body of a white man & he was tied to a tree and his body fearfully gashed. I do not know whether to believe him or not. Chapman says not. These Half Breeds & Indians love to bring news and cause a sensation. It makes no difference to them & should they be proved liars the next moment. I hope it is not true. In a day or two we will get authentic news from Wood Mountain. To day at dinner we had quite a feast, a splendid soup, made of pemmican, and with barley, corn and Beans, onions, etc., then a second course of boiled fresh Beef, our facilities for roasting are not the best – as a dessert we had some cornstarch & syrup. We always finish every meal with bread and syrup, when there is bread. We had a great row about the bread some days ago. It was cut into slices and put upon the table in plates and each one helped himself, well the natural consequence was that some got more than others, a pound of bread a day divided into three meals is not a great deal to men with prairie appetites. The early birds in this got all the worms, and those who were detained for any reason usually got none. A great outcry was raised, and then at breakfast each mans pound of flour made up into bread was placed at his place at the table. We divided these into 3 parts each one according to his taste, put our mark upon the remainder which was for our dinner & supper. This plan we found to work very well. Before that the meals were anything but pleasant and anything but satisfactory, particularly at times, ravenously hungry I would get up from the table with an appetite as unappeased as when I sat down. This latter arrangement appears to do away with anything of the sort. The men complain a good eal of the short allowances they have – but nevertheless they seem to thrive upon it. The great hardship with them is when on the march, some of the teams play out and are unable to catch up to the camp for some hours in camp has to do with out anything to eat until it comes up.

The wind is blowing today in fitful gusts now & then a sputter of rain and then clears off. Towards the north a large prairie fire is still burning, huge volumes of smoke brood along the ground, it has been burning for five or six days. There has not been rain sufficient to extinguish it. The wind only fans the flame and gives it new force & vigour. Our sick list is gradually diminishing. We are to leave a camp with all unnecessary stores here under the charge of a constable & a few sub constables forming a depot for the provisions of the troops on their backward march. I will of course not be here again. From Bow River Troops B & C go on through the Blackfoot country to Fort Edmonton. A Troop has already gone there. Troops D E & F will return. We expect to reach Bow River by the end of this month, or the beginning of next. No one knows how long we will have to stay there but all hope to get away soon. Prairie life is pleasant enough and I cannot complain of being necessitated to endure many very great hardships but I too will be glad when I am lodged with shingles above & boards below with a good blazing fire. I shall not be at all sorry, more especially when I think I may find letters there from you. I look forward with trembling too – for perhaps I may be disappointed. I hope not, and I will not. Round camp here it is a lazy life. Sick parade at 9 a.m. then visit the sick who are not able to leave their quarters & then the rest of the day is to myself, interrupted however by stray calls from those who do not feel well during the day. Now & then a slight hurt or accident comes under our notice and demands some slight attention but never yet have we had any serious accident. To day[sic] while at church we almost had one. One of the cooks was trying to clean one of the shot guns and in the most foolish manner stuck the breech in the fire & left it, another cook who was working round the same fire managed to be in front of it as it exploded the discharge blew the breeches of the man to atoms, and inflicted a bad bruise upon his leg. It fortunately happened that there was no charge in the gun only a piece of rag which was saturated with gun powder, had it been loaded the man’s leg would have been shattered beyond redemption. I left church to see him, and placed the careless fellow who had stuck the gun in the fire under arrest. He will tomorrow have to answer for his extreme carelessness. There is a carelessness manifested in every thing connected with the force even the placing & posting of the guard around the camp & of the picquet around the horses. A band of Indians could as easily rule the camp and scalp us all before we knew it. More stringency in this respect will now be enforced as we are about entering a territory swarming with Indians who will never refuse a scalp when offered to them. But good bye. My letter must close the man is now going. Good Bye. My love to all at home & my dearest dearest love keep with you.

Barrie

Camp Old Woman’s Creek, August 15th 1874

My darling Lizzie

I wrote to Jack yesterday in a great hurry having suddenly heard of an opportunity of sending a letter by Col. MacLeod via Wood Mountain where some person is on the 17th going to leave for Fort Garry. Today I have heard of another chance a large portion of Half Breed with horses have just met us on their way to Fort Garry. The head man is a friend and old schoolfellow of Dr. Kittson. I told you that opportunities would occur somewhat like this did I no?. They are all one sided however and only go one way. I wish I could hear from you, were it ever so short. I am starved for want of hearing from you. But never mind [?] [?] must come to all things and when I do get news from you they will be all the dearer & all the more greedily devoured. Just fancy the hubbub confusion, excitement, anxiety & crowded rush for letters when mail does come. And then the happy moments afterwards reading, rereading & again reading until every word is engraved clearly & distinctly on our memories. Ah but it’s something to look forward to. Almost (not quite) a full recompense for the long period of anxious expectation - & vexing uncertainty. I am glad that I am able to state with a clear conscience, that as yet I have killed no one – either medicinally or otherwise. As for my own health it is perfect without a flaw. I am strong as the ox (fabled) & am getting of an exquisite mahogany colour, which colour when I get warm takes on the beautiful polish the aforesaid wood is so famous for. Indeed at times I have a spinning countenance. I am happy comparatively speaking as happy as I can be without my tormentor [?] I have not audibly been called any hard names such as goose [?] head, donkey & other ladylike & civilized appellations. To tell truth I often wish I could hear such terms upon which I had learned to look as terms of welcome kindness[,] pity or love. I would willingly forego many pleasures to hear them again. I wrote to you from our camping place about 5 miles from this & sent it to Wood Mountain by an Indian guide. Before that my letter was by Capt. Walters who with Col. McLeod had left us to go to Wood Mountain for Pemmican – he delivered the letter in safe hands to go to Garry. I have no stamps. That is the thing I could not remember in Jack’s letter yesterday. Ask him to send me as many stamps as he chooses. After numerous trials & many disappointments I have at last succeeded in getting a tunic without any gold trim however and some grey cloth for riding breeches but I have to get these made up without trimming of any sort, buttons or anything else. I expect I will have to tie them together with Sagannappi [sic], it’s trimmings will in that case far outlast the cloth. You remember I told you I sent everything I did not consider absolutely necessary to Fort Edmonton from Roche Percée. The country through which we have been laterally passing bears the same leading characteristics as that before. Old Woman’s lake is quite a body of water – salt – tho’ scarcely perceptible in the taste, yet in its effects upon the men as was easily seen it was not like ordinary water. We camped just on the Lake shores and indulged freely in the luxury of a daily bath, the watering of the horses was a scene of life vivacity & confusion seldom witnessed along the quiet shores of the lake, one might easily made out for a mile and then be not over his depth, the bottom was a fine hard firm sand. Plenty of gulls curlews & ducks flew about and at a distance some pelicans were seen fishing. Col. French shot a pelican which I believe will be stuffed it measures more than eight feet from tip to tip of its wings which were tipped with black the beak long & the pendulous baglike lower lip of a bright yellow as also are the legs – the rest of the plumage is a glistening white. The artist has made a sketch of the watering of the horses, which is very like. The artist has lately been very busy, making sketches of the Indians and their encampment. As a rule they are very good. These will, I believe not be published until sometime in the winter when he returns to Montreal. I have not been making any sketches at all lately. I have not felt at all in the humor.

What have you been doing with yourself? Have you been taking some exercise? You must write and tell me all about yourself – what you do & is done to you – who visits you & what is the latest bit of news about your neighbors & friends & everybody and everything. Do you mind? See that you do – the smallest atom of news will be acceptable to me. If you should hear anything from home be sure and let me know of it. I wrote home before I left telling them to send their letters to the Hospital as before & they would be forwarded to me. You might ask Jack to call on Dr. McCollum and ask him to direct all letters for me to Fort Garry. If Jack sees the Dr, tell him to remember me most kindly both to him and to Mrs. McCollum. If Green is there to Gunn also to McAlpine in fact that I begged to be remembered to them all. He might tell Poulter that I saw some of the Boundary Commission. As I write there are two Indians on horseback in front of my tent. They have had an accession to their numbers today they appear to be finer looking fellows than the others. I stopped there and appeared at a general parade, to have some orders read out. Then the next excitement was three figures on horse back in the distance, they were approaching the camp at a rapid pace. Who were they? One turned out to be our guide an Indian the one whom I gave the letter from Old Woman’s Lake & with him came a stranger of whom the guide knew nothing he wished to join the force or at least to be hired as a guide, he speaks English well and Siox but no French – no one knows if he has any acquaintance with the Blackfoot language[;] an investigation is now going on of who & what he is & what he knows. I hope they will have nothing to do with him as he has a most cut throat appearance.

Last evening I enjoyed most thoroughly. I went down to speak to Capt. Miles in his tent and found quite a congregation there – singing – one or two really excellent voices – the choruses showed that a good quartette could easily be obtained in the camp, there was one fellow called Beattie who has a good Bass. They continued to sing – songs sentimental, songs comic – songs semi comic & the internals interspersed with remarks sarcastic – personal and general. They are at it again[,] Beautiful Star is now going in full fling – the tenor is good. Yesterday evening some of the Indians came over and invited us with a dance – it was done on a small scale – a Brave a fine broad shouldered fellow was the leader – he had on a blanket and a feather in his hair – he was accompanied by six or seven squaws who with the [?] vanity of their sex had various ornaments round their necks[,] in their ears – bracelets rings & some attempts at embroidery in their dress & moccasins. They formed themselves in a circle the leader with a mammoth child’s rattle began beating time – then all hooted – then they all began to chant in an uncouth rough monotonous unmusical and in unison a jargon – the leader keeping time & the circle moved round keeping both feet together and on the ground – they appeared to get more excited or at all events they moved faster & faster & they ceased and laughed. Our interpreter said it was a song about their memories the Blackfeet being snared & scalped – it might have been that or anything else. Their dance was interrupted by the discordant tones of a concertina playing a jig tune – some of the men then began to dance a jig & then a Scotch reel & finally ended in a waltz. The Indians apparently did not like this and went away looking decidedly huffed. The thunderstorm of which I made mention to Jack passed off with only one or two good gusts of wind which raised the dust in enormous clouds during the night – however a second storm was brewing and came up with a good deal of thunder and lightning & some wind but no rain more than a few drops. I had undressed and gone to bed but as the wind began to rise, I gradually put on one thing after another until I was entirely dressed boots & all. I expected the tent to come down every moment the wind was blowing straight against my side of the tent when suddenly I was awakened by a deafening bang & something struck me forcibly in the head. I could hear a confused stamping & struggling outside. I looked through the tent which now has a big hole in the side and saw an enormous horse struggling wildly and almost beyond the controls of the men around him. However they got him away and I afterwards found out it was the stallion which had broken loose and had bolted & was making straight for my tent on the full gallop when they just stopped him in time. Had he come on well you would not have heard from me again. That is the great danger in all these thunderstorms mainly a stampede of the horses. They become so terribly frightened. All day today I have been without a house my tent being in the hands of the tent maker mending the rent made last night as also sundry other rents made during the night when it was blown down of which I wrote you before. However it is now all fixed up and better than ever. The tobacco we draw from the stores is the most miserable beastly stuff, full of stems hairs of hemp and were small nails. You might ask Jack to call at Jaguiers on King Street and get five pounds of the kind I generally get – the long flat thick plugs and if it will not make the parcel too large send it up with the boots. It will reach me I expect some time in January and will last a long time. I will have lots & lots of time in the long winter evenings to smoke and read. My reading will I expect however be confined to medical literature as I have none but medical works – and probably there will be none other in Edmonton. Thank Jack ever so much for “93” & “Nancy”. I have read them and they are now going through the camp. “93” I intend reading again and trying to find out something about the numerous names mentioned therein. I have been reading a French novel called “Bibi-Tapin”. It is well written, and I find that with the exception of a phrase or a work now and then that I can understand it very well. The story consists of about 300 large double column pages about the size of an ordinary school atlas, it has a good many wood plates in it but never the less it is quite a mighty work. I have just opened my ink bottle and spilled my ink. I managed to get this one penful and suppose I must say goodnight tomorrow I will go (Sunday Aug 16) and borrow some.

Camp Aug. 2nd 1874

Since the last opportunity of letting you know of my whereabouts at Rocher Percée we have been carrying out the programme. After leaving Roche Percée which we did on Wednesday afternoon we made a march of 10 miles to Wood End so called on account of the wood there being the last for a hundred of miles. We camped there the next day Thursday & cooked 3 or 4 days rations. Started from Wood End at 5 in the morning and camped on the banks of a stream – Saturdays march took us 28 miles farther West and we camped near some water in the open Prairie. We remain here over Sunday.

At Roche Percée I made application for my full kit & a horse but could obtain nothing – except blankets and a saddle so perforce I had to go in a wagon. At Wood End – we has a general muster. I took the first opportunity of spotting a horse but could not get it for my use – owing to its being required for a draught horse. I have now given up in despair the hope of obtaining a horse until we get to Wood Mountain. Rather a come down is it not? I like Kittson very much, he speaks English with a decidedly French accent. He is half brother of the Harry Kittson I knew in Lumoxville. The chap also went to school there, but before my time. He was in private practice at Berthier and recollects seeing & meeting Saida while she was there. Queer is it not how the world goes round – and one meets with unexpected people in out of the way places.

The man whom I am to have as Hospital Sergeant had a cousin at Sunnyville – a very clever fellow who used to stand always at the head of his form. The man is a Frenchman has studied medicine & at Edmonton will be invaluable among the French with whom I will there be brought into contact.

The weather has been strange in the extreme yet not altogether unpleasant, warm during the day with an exception now and again. The nights as a rule very cold, at Roche Percée the first night I was there it stood a 32º & ice was found on the river – and since then I do not think the minimum temperature during the night has ever been above 40º.

Since leaving Wood End we have seen no wood – but what we have brought with us and expect to see none for a day or two yet we are now about 6 miles from Wood End. Just fancy seeing 100 miles without a piece of wood so large as a lead pencil. We are now approaching the Buffalo country.. living animals are beginning to be seen. Buffalo skulls & skeletons more numerous & apparently fresher than they were. In lieu of Candlesticks we use one of the vertebra of a buffalo putting the candle into its spinal foramer. The Colonel went ahead the other morning with his shot gun and got 12 ducks for the mess. It was a very great change from the salt pork. I am attached to the Staff with exactly what work I cannot say. I dine at the Staff mess – and eat heartily too. Our tea last night consisted of tea – (no sugar, no milk) bread (no butter) molasses – fried duck, & fried pork. Breakfast this morning being Sunday was later & we had a swell breakfast Porridge & molasses & milk, coffee, duck, Bacon, Bread, butter & sugar for our Coffee. I do not know that I have increased much in size height or weight. But I know that I am feeling better than I have felt since I was at the Hospital.

By the By did you hear what Mrs. McCollum thought of my photograph? I forgot to ask you in the last, but make up for it now. Forgive me my dear Lizzie for not being more prepared for our utter separation or for not preparing you more for it. But I had no idea we should have so few opportunities for sending letters. I thought surely that at least twice or 3 times a month. I should have been able to hear from you and write to you – but I see now that it must be for less than that. I expect to send this from Wood Mountain unless I meet a portion of the Boundary commission going East when I will turn it over to them. In about 3 weeks we expect to reach Bow River and then our line of march will be virtually thro’ an enemy’s country – as the whiskey distillers will hardly regard us in a friendly aspect. Our direction will then be due North towards Edmonton. I do not know if the whole force will go towards Edmonton & perhaps the portion intending to winter in Garry will leave us at the South Saskatchewan & proceed as directly East towards Garry as it is possible for them to do so. Leaving us to find our way through the Blackfoot country to Fort Edmonton. Most likely the latter as it will probably be late in the Season and they will be obliged to hurry on. In January there will be one mail by Edmonton by dog sleigh – by what is known as the Hudson Bay Packet. Perhaps the Government may send a second one but it would be as well not to depend upon that in any way as it is only a surmise and has no foundation whatever.

I have been examining the water that we are forced to drink – with a microscope & there are animals in it that look like huge fleas – nice it is not – Some of them are not animalculae but are visible individually to the naked eye. However when boiled and tea made with them you can’t distinguish the animals from tea leaves so it doesn’t matter – Julien the artist is taking a microscope drawing of one now to serve to the “News” on the first opportunity.

I found out this evening what will be the most probable course of the expedition. We are now camping just on the 10th meridian of Longitude a few miles north of the 49th parallel of Latitude our course will be north west trending slightly to the West, to a lake called Old Woman’s Lake. Before we get there a party is to be sent off due west to Wordy Mountain (we will go north to that place) to get pemmican & will join us at Camp on Old Woman’s Lake – from thence our course will be west to Bow River at the Junction of which with the Belly River which is on the 112º of Longitude, we will do whatever is to be done & then the force will divide, the Garry troops retracing their steps to Old Woman’s camp & thence directly East of Fort Ellice & Garry, our detachment proceeding north-ward to Edmonton.

Col. McLeod[sic] & Capt. Walker are to take over the one leaving to Woody Mountain, and to the latter I am going to entrust this letter, with the hopes that the Boundary Commission will have an opportunity of communicating with the outer world before I will. I hope so sincerely. Now I want you to take good care of yourself and take plenty of exercise. I want you to look well and as tho’ you had enjoyed yourself while I was away at the wars. What did you do this evening? I took a walk as I said I would – all by myself out on the desolate prairie, yet it did not seem so desolate or so dreary for you seemed to be with me. I could almost hear you speak. A most beautiful sunset lightened up the west. The sky all day being dark and grey with dull heavy looking clouds. But the glories of the sunset made up for the dreary day.

Tomorrow morning reveille sounds at 3.30 and the force is to move off at 5. Pretty early hours eh? Last night two of the men went out about dusk to shoot ducks, night came on & they had not made their appearance, We could hear shots now and again at some distance in the marsh. They were to all intents and purposes lost. We called and sounded the bugles raised lanterns as high as possible and finally sent up a rocket, this last was too much for the horses who were hobbled in the marsh, they all took fright and began to stampede, such a rushing of feet, the very ground shook and in the moonlight a dense dark moving mass could be seen in the marsh, fortunately their hampered condition & the energetic endeavours of the picquet stopped them else we might have had a serious loss. The men in a couple of hours came in all right and avowed that they were not lost – but only shooting ducks. However they were placed under arrest and are not likely to attempt duck shooting in the dark again, at least not in a hurry. There are no Indians round here, the country would never afford them sustenance so my hair is safe for a time, till we get into a better country. It is now getting pretty late and I am tired and have to get up early in the morning so I will bid you good-night and if I have time will add a few lines to this. God bless you my darling. I am your own.

Barrie.

July 25th

I have had as you see no opportunity of sending this nor will I for another week. I am afraid that Mr. Cameron was right after all. Mr. Chapman and I reached the rear guard of the Police – consisting of the Red River Carts on Thursday evening at a place called the second crossing of the Souris, because there we cross the Souris river for the second time. The night we camped at the river with a fierce prairie fire raging on the opposite side in spite of which we all slept soundly. But I must begin now in detail. We started from Dufferin on Friday with 2 men 2 teams as horse & wagon provisions for 10 days. After leaving Grants the Half breed’s farm we made camp. Chapman’s horse got mired trying to get a drink. We got him out and had a nice time cleaning him & the saddle. The camp was just on the confines of a prairie which we had been crossing all day, a deep ravine wooded behind us & fur trees in either side with an almost boundless stretch of prairie in front. We made tea & thoroughly enjoyed our friend pork & hard tack. We also instituted a watch & more to see the way in which our horses might be stolen than from any hope of saving them if any attempt should be made. It was weary work after a long days drive to sit awake for two hours during the night. I forgot to say that I this morning began my first experience of riding. I rode all the morning and drove during the after-noon. I felt a little sore & tired but otherwise I did not ride hard all the time. The horses were miserable beasts half starved and one of them miserably sick. I took a sketch of part of the prairie by our camp. The next morning we were off [ ] & for dinner stopped at a puddle of water for an hour or two – it was just in the middle of a rolling prairie, undulations of the ground rolling onwards like the ground at sea for miles & miles, no tree or rock to break the distance till then fade away with the faint blue horizon. I rode all the morning, in the evening we camped in a beautiful valley sunk in the middle of the prairies, the sides of the valley sloping upwards very steep & terminating in prairie, a stream flows through the valley – and the mosquitoes are fearful. Bright and warm is the morning we are off again the horses looking a little fagged but eating their oats well. We passed the cusp of the Police about 4 miles on through the wildest looking country I ever saw at noon we came to another stream & another camp of the police – we halted for dinner – having made about 25 miles. We had to turn one of our horses loose here as it could go no further. We then proceeded along. I riding and keeping a good long distance in front, we were gradually rising higher and higher above the level of the sea over ranges of smoothly winded hills, all being covered by a short thick dried grass presenting no trace of green on all their extended surface – but nestled in among some rather more prominent mounds – shut in on all sides would be a lake or pond or marsh or dry land ground covered with the rankest most luxuriant grass of the richest shades of green & yellow – which curlew flew & at times duck could be seen flying about. The water at times is good, at other times very salt & salt in crustations all around its margins. We camped tonight in a beautiful spot[,] a river very sluggish – but its banks fringed with trees – rushes birds of all kinds hopping about & singing – such a change from the dry stillness of the prairie. I here took a small sketch of the river. My turn to keep watch came on at 2 in the morning. Oh it was lively then I can tell you in every dark object I could fancy I saw moving imagining it to be an Indian until I went up to it & find only a bush or stump any unusual noise would be construed into an Indian signal – if the horses were restless they smelt an Indian. I was not so much afraid of my scalp as of the horses – if they were stolen our provisions would also go & we should starve or be reduced to the extremity of eating one another. However morning came & no Indians we started off in fine style and traveled over the interminable prairies we could find no water in the evening until late at night, the thirst we suffered was terrible & the poor horses – with heads down wearied, stepping out – about 9 o’clock we found a beautiful spring hidden among some bushes, it was the merest chance. The chance was providential and we were very thankful. My how the wind did blow that night a thunder storm at some distance, the lightning was fearfully with the wind blowing a perfect gale. Mine was the first watch of the night, and every moment I thought the tent would blow down – or the wagon topple over. However by 12 o’clock nothing had happened and I retired to sleep and oblivion. The next day we made the 1st crossing of the Souris after a journey in all respects similar to the previous ones. The sun was exceedingly hot and I got my face and hands pretty well burned, more especially as I was riding and had exchanged my hard hat for the scotch cap – at the first crossing of the Souris we found the remains of a Police camp where the evidently had camped for a couple of days. It was a lovely spot a broad valley with the river running through it winding about like a silver thread, the banks fringed with thick woods. The valley was shut in by high banks almost precipitous & on reaching the top they immediately go off into the dead [ ] of the prairie. We found two oxen left behind by the Force and two horses that had perished. The next day we were off and traveled as before until noon when we came across a piece of burnt prairie and of all the desolate looking things or places this was the worst for miles and miles nothing but an expanse of blackened ground – bare of any vestige of green not a sign of life even the little gophers a sort of chipmunk had disappeared – nothing but the barren bleak desolate burnt ground, which was hot from the fire and from the sun the wind blew small particles of ashes & dust in our eyes and rendered them sore, at the termination of the fire we found a marsh where we watered the horses and had dinner consisting of hard tack cold pork and sardines. We then pushed on[,] Chapman’s horse gave out so he and one of the men remained behind to lead it, we met one of the police riding back to look for a cow but as we had not seen it he rode back with us giving his horse to Chapman. We reached the second crossing of the Souris about 9 o’clock – pitched our tent & proceeded to have supper. Chapman did not get in until after 10. We found a number of the Police in the ox carts – had remained behind, the rest of the force having gone on in the morning that night the ox train with the cattle moved on. There was a report here that during the day a party of Sioux to the number of 150 has passed & taken all the provisions from a party of the Boundary Commission who were stationed there. However we kept no watch that night as we were all too tired, and we felt a sense of security from our proximity to the police. In the morning we started off and by noon came upon the oxtrain, had dinner and rested for an hour or two and again started off. We made about 20 miles after dinner & about six o’clock came upon a few wagons that had not been able to keep up to the train so we encamped along with them and the next morning Chapman & myself walked into the camp of the police about 10 miles further on. We had some breakfast at the mess and then reported to the Colonel. The Col. is a tall man with rather a hard face I think & fond of giving a rub now and again to show he is boss. Still if I do my duty & he can do nothing to me. Of the other Officers Capt. French seems to be a jolly Irishman. I think I can get along all right with him. He was very much obliged for the letters & parcel I brought him. He is a long lanky fellow over six feet tall with an Irish accent & is apparently a jovial chap. Col. McLeod[sic] the second in command is a gentleman & fine looking. Col. Griffiths the Adjt. Is very kind and obliging & I am sure I will like him. The others I have seen but seldom and am hardly able to form an opinion. Dr. Kittson is about 30 years of age, athletic fond of sporting & hunting and with very fair professional abilities. He will be an easy chap to get along with. I am to draw my uniform etc. here. I have blankets waterproof sheet & Pistol already, the rest I will have to get here. The meals are pretty good considering. There is plenty of pork, hard tack, some bread which is heavy as lead, tea, sugar, at times wild duck, at others Beef, soup etc. My work began the day after I arrived here which was on Saturday morning Sunday I went to Kittson’s tent & helped him through with the sick parade & to day Monday I undertook it myself and succeeded to my entire satisfaction. There are none really ill a few cases only of local distress. You will notice that our course from Dufferin has been almost due West along the road under by the Boundary Commission and will continue so until we reach Bow River which is about six hundred miles West of this then we will turn northwards & make for these whiskey distillers endeavor to make them stop their whiskey trade or fight them. The force will return by way of Fort Edmonton where a portion of them will remain for the winter and I will be left in charge of them Dr. Kittson being with the forces in headquarters at Fort Garry. I am well pleased with this sort of life and think it agrees with me. The name of our present camp is Roches Percée from the fact that in the valley where we are encamped is a rock of the limestone formation, the winds & rains & snows have so worn the softer parts that the rock is fissured in every direction & a big hole has been formed through its middle. In one of the future Canadian Illustrated you will see a picture of it drawn by their special artist by the name of Julien – a dirty-looking little Frenchman who draws very well indeed while I am thus writing about him he comes to look at some of the sketches that I have taken and thinks very well of them. So I suppose I ought to alter my opinion about him but I cannot.

I think Fort Garry would be a better place to address my letters than Dufferin – to the Assistant Surgeon N.W.M. Police Fort Garry. They will then forward them to Fort Edmonton or wherever I may be if an opportunity occurs.

I intend writing to Dr. Workinan Dr. McCollum and to Mannie to day. Tell Jack to try and send me some stamps. The uniform measure at McEachren’s will be of no service to me, so nothing need be said about that unless he charges for the mere measurement. The boots are finished I should like sent out to Fort Garry. How do you like my photos? Do you think them good? How did you enjoy your trip to Chicago – with the Taylors? Has Jacks Postal card chess game finished yet and if so who won and if not who has the advantage?

Remember me to Frank Darling – tell him I wish he was along, this Julien has $1400 a year from the Illustrated news – can’t Grip afford a special artist and send Frank – ask him.

Now darling don’t you be in the blues because you don’t often hear from me. I think of you always last night I took a quiet walk down the valley and in all the stillness of the wilderness saw things to come, lifted the veil of the future and with fond longings cried out for the present to pass – for the unknown yet certain to be at hand, unknown for we do not know in what positions we will be nor what out circumstances yet certain in our mutual all abiding love – for this can never change – never grow cold – can it Lizzie? Never mind no cloud but has a silver lining – let us hope that ours will be golden. Fort Edmonton is not so far as the Rocky Mountains, or not so far as it might be. Tis a long lane that has no turning. But all this proverbial comfort is almost worst than no comfort for it brings so strongly into the foreground the long period of separation – which we must endure.

The weather has been very pleasant – quite warm during the day and during the nights quite cool. On Saturday night the Thermometer stood at 32º freezing point and there was ice on the river! At this camp a detachment of the Police came down from Fort Ellice – and they with Troop A are on Wednesday morning going back & are the bearers of our mails so this will have travelled with me, from Grants farm near Dufferin to Roche Percée & from thence to Ft. Ellice & Fort Garry – a long way and a roundabout one for a letter to take is it not.

And now my own darling I must say goodbye. Give my love to your mother and Sallie. Remember me most kindly to all inquiring friends Probably from Wood End or from Woody Mountain Depot. I will have another opportunity of sending you a line. Good bye for a period. May our God shower his blessing upon you and comfort you.

Goodbye

Yours forever
Barrie.

P.S. Remember

Nevitt
Assistant Surgeon
N.W.M. Police
Fort Garry