Saturday, August 29, 2009

Cypress Mountains, August 27, 1874 [ctd.]

Aug. 29 Again I borrow the ink. Chapman the man who was supposed to guide me from Dufferin to Roche Percée is detailed to go back from here to Fort Garry. He will take a lot of mail matter with him this letter amongst it. I have no idea how long it will take him to Garry possibly not under a month or three weeks at least and then a week from there to Toronto, so that it will be at least 5 weeks & perhaps six before this meets your eye. Probably by that time I shall be far on my way to Edmonton. The large band of Indians that we heard were encamped here have all departed on their way to the Capell trading post to make a treaty which Gov. Thorns is getting up with the Crees etc. We were not altogether displeased at not having met them. Their stealing propensities would be a cause of grave inconvenience and anxiety. The noble savage as I have seen him is a most pitiable object – first on accounts of his dirty filthy habits & appearance then his moral status is so low. He will lie steal or murder for the slightest thing he covets & is the greatest and most unblushing begger under the sun. No matter how grievous you may have been towards him he will still ask for something else. To day in camp we had the lances out for the first time – a squad of men drilling with them. They are long bamboo poles with a steel head to point and also a steel but to rest in a socket when carried at rest. The drill was very pretty & the lances looked well with small pennions flashing from their peaks. They look very well but I fail to see their exact use. No Indian or bushwhacker will ever venture within lancing distance. They are of no use in this country. We have been faring most sumptuously since we have camped here. Just fancy out in the prairie we have a dinner of three distinct courses. First soup – made of pemmican, duck curry & onionc – then salmon – then ducks & plover with tomatoes – cold Venison – finishing up with our usual desert of Bread & molasses. Was that not a sumptuous repast? Last night and the night before we had a rainfall – the most continuous we have had since we left Dufferin. It rained pretty heavy all night. In the morning the dry dusty arid ground had become a mass of the most sticky adhesive mud I ever saw – huge masses would cling to our boots making them as heavy as lead. It seemed as tho’ we were about receiving our grant of 160 acres real estate and carrying it about with us. How ever by this afternoon the ground was again perfectly dry. I am beginning to feel lonely there is no officer in the force about whom I care a rush – and the most companionable are to return to Garry this winter. So my medical works will have a good deal to do in keeping one amused and busy. You know the old rhyme about The Devil always finds some work for idle hands to do. I must try not to let my hands be idle – nor my brain either – good bye – my love to your Father & Mother & Sallie & all.

Your own Barrie

Friday, August 28, 2009

Cypress Mountains, August 27, 1874 [ctd.]

Aug. 28th I had to stop owing to borrowed ink. To go on with what I was saying – we will have two mails during the winter perhaps three we were also talking about having reading matter sent up to us a list of books that each one wishes will be made out and any duplicates struck out. So our winter evenings will not be altogether unprofitably spent. I have found an ardent admirer of chess – who was bewailing the want of a set of chess-men. I gladdened his heart by telling him that I had brought mine along with me – we will have some grand old games – Jack can busy himself making problems for our solution. Every one speaks well of Edmonton as being a nice place – with quite a settlement in the vicinity of the Fort who knows perhaps I may make a good thing out of a private practice enough to keep me in kid gloves up there. What have you been doing with yourself? Has Miss Taylor been to pay you a visit yet? You must remember me kindly to her – when you write or see her. Dearest girl I have been reading in your dear old book you must have carried it with you & used it for a long time. It seems like a beautiful souvenir of yourself reading over the pages which you have so often perused & it seems like reading it with you. I can almost hear your dear voice reading with me. I have not felt so very blue or so very lonely as to justify me in opening your note but often often have I looked at your old crabbed hand & wondered what words of comfort & consolation I would find there it acts like a charm even tho’ I read nothing but my own name – but that has been written by your own dear hand. I carry the little book in my pocket always about with me – and often take it out sometimes only to look at my name on the envelope and yours just opposite on the fly leaf. Remember you are to tell me everything you do no matter how trivial it is – you keep a journal and are able to recall any little incidents I cannot do this. I can only recollect the most important ones. My diary was kept in a large book which I had to send on to Edmonton from Roche Percée. When I get to the end I will be in better form then to let you know almost exactly what I do all thro’ every day. I feel it will not weary you and the trouble that it will give me will be amply repaid by the thought that it is for you that I am doing it. You must give only warmest love to Mannie Cameron. Tell him that I intend to use him as my encyclopedia. I have not a few subjects upon which I wish light to be thrown and will apply to him before long. When does he go to Philadelphia? I am sorry that I did not get a large stock of Postage stamps to bring along with me but as I have not if people wish to hear from me they will have to pay the postage. We are now in the hostile Indian country and greater care & watchfulness will be required now consequently the guard has been doubled around the camp in place of four sentries we now have nine the corral formed by the wagons is in the form of a number of squares the horses are picketed there every night and a guard mounted over them – outside of the wagons are the tents of the men & outside of these of course the line of sentries. Now no stragglers are permitted either in front of the advance guard or at a great distance on the flanks & the rear guard hustles any who lag behind. The wagons themselves now keep in a close train each team at about 4 yards distance behind the preceding the ox carts keep together. You should see these carts – huge rough unwieldy looking things that appear ready to fall to pieces at the slightest concussion – all bound together by bits of shagannappi – they make the most aweful squeaking & squealing as they are drawn along by their single horse or ox – one man manages three four or five carts – the ones he looks after the oxen being tied behind each forward cart. These ox carts always go first on the march then by troops according as each one is ready first. Our assistant commissioner the one who will be in charge at Edmonton has gone off to White muc[mud?] river to get oats & we are waiting here for his return after that we will move on. Bow River according to the matest calculations is 160 miles from here we thought it nearer. They say 100 that all the grass between here and there has been devoured by grasshoppers and Buffalo – a bad look out for the horses that – yesterday evening I took a sketch of a sunset. I do not know if it is a success or not this afternoon I put in a foreground and altogether it does not look so bad. It does not look much like the sunset for which it was intended but no on will ever see that to compare it. I must give up on my ink again – so goodbye

Thursday, August 27, 2009

Cypress Mountains, August 27, 1874

My dearest Lizzie

My last to you was from Old Woman’s creek where we formed a cripple camp leaving there all the men & horses unable to go on and the surplus stores – we have journeyed on meeting with no more Indians but two days after leaving there we met a party of traders amongst whom was a Roman missionary who is on his way to Edmonton where I suppose I will meet him again, he is a tall skeleton of a man with the crown shaved but hair about half an inch long & a beard moustache & whiskers of six months growth on clad in a rough priestly garb he has been in this country for 19 years – he could converse in English & French but was frequently at a loss for a word. He knows Indian best – we had a rainy night once – the tent leaked and I was on the rainy said – consequently before the night was over I found myself in a pool of water. I moves and got in a bigger pool I moved back & went to sleep covering up my head & throwing my water proof sheet over me as well as possible. I was thoroughly wet but so with that I slept soundly all night long. My clothes were all wet in the morning which was the worst. However I suffered nothing more than the personal inconveniences and that was all over as the sun rose. We are now in the country of the Buffalo and it will not be long before we see a great many – we have come across numerous dead ones – some that have been killed within a month – but as yet no living ones. On Saturday last I gave back the horse I had been riding as it was a worn out plug ugly, scarred & fearfully frightened. I found that if I kept it – I should never get another and would in all probability be asked to purchase it – so I took to walking again on Saturday I walked twenty-two miles and on Monday I walked 25 and on Tuesday 15. The last was the hardest I did it all on a stretch – although part of the mountains. I was dreadfully thirsty & nor near any wagon – to get a drink. But happily I found a small spring in one of the many ravines. I tell you I was thankful & I enjoyed myself most thoroughly. We had our first deer today. It was killed by our guide a halfbreed. We are camped now in a large valley between two ridges of the Hills – by the side of the small lake – there is not much grass and the water is hard to get at – we are obliged to wait in this neighbourhood for a time as McLeod then Ass’t Commissioner has gone off to get more oats for the horses. We got to this place on Tuesday about 12 o’clock & have been camped here since. My watch or rather your watch nearly came to grief yesterday. I had put my coat & vest on one of the carts and was walking in my shirt sleeve. My watch was in my vest pocket the vest fell off the cart & several cart wheels passed over the vest but fortunately the watch escaped the buttons on the vest were all crushed. My health bears up wonderfully well. I have nothing to complain of in that tone except my appetite which is voracious causing me to desire to eat more than is good for me. I manage to get enough to live upon very comfortable & have gained 3 lbs in weight since I joined the force, 3 lbs a month will make 36 lbs a year, will make 108 lbs in 3 years so if an enormous man – rough mannered in short sunburnt & weighing 248lbs comes at the expiration of 3 years to see you you will know me by that – and also by a cut on the joint of my right thumb. So you must look carefully so as to be able to recognize me when I do come back. This is the greatest country for winds – the wind blows with such unobstructed violence pushing along – whistling among the tent guys – and causing the tents to flap and shake till one would think they would come down every moment. What forcibly reminds one of that is the flickering of the candle by which I am now endeavouring to write – every now and again I put my hand in my pocket for a match as the candle has apparently gone out – but it generally flares up again. Did I tell you that Chapman and I have been separated our little square tent which we inhabited together has been given to another set and we turned over to other tents. My tent mates are Capt. Brisebois Lt. deFaut Capt of cavalry in the Yankee Army – also an officer in the Popal Louaves – a Frenchman & Roman Catholic with his hair cropped short it stands up like a wire scrubbing brush – he is about a medium height and strong with a neck like a bull dirty bad tempered very nervous. The other is a young fellow about my age from Cornwall. His name is Allen – he is quiet and rather good looking – he knows a Wood Jarvis & others from Cornwall. Brisebois is from Sherbrooke and also knows lots of my old school fellows. It will not be long now before we are at Bow River at every halting place the Col. takes an observation and trys to find out where we are – but he cannot make out exactly our long. He makes us here to be north a few miles of the 50º Lat. we have been obliged to come this far north to avoid going over the Cypress Hills. According to Palliser’s map we have yet 160 miles to go but Palliser’s map has been proved to be so incorrect that we are uncertain how far it really is – the guides do not appear to know any more about it than we do. And after the Bow River I have over 200 miles north to go to arrive at Fort Edmonton. The officers who are going there have been talking of getting up a mail during the winter – each one to subscribe so much – hire a halfbreed & team of dogs – send down to Fort Garry & have him bring back what then is there for us – and if the Government does the same & the Hudson’s Bay Jackets and they do not all come together that will be three mails during the winter and not only one.

Sunday, August 16, 2009

Camp Old Woman’s Creek, August 15th 1874 [ctd.]

As you see I have succeeded. Dr. Kittson was kind enough to lend me some. He has one of those magic inkstands pour in some water at one end & it comes out at the other a beautiful black ink. They are very convenient. Our guide who came in last evening brought a rumor from Wood Mountain that the Boundary Commission store at White Creek has been robbed by a band of Sioux Indians. Also that Capt. Cameron on his way to Wood Mountain had found five or six bodies laying exposed along the roadside scalped one was the body of a white man & he was tied to a tree and his body fearfully gashed. I do not know whether to believe him or not. Chapman says not. These Half Breeds & Indians love to bring news and cause a sensation. It makes no difference to them & should they be proved liars the next moment. I hope it is not true. In a day or two we will get authentic news from Wood Mountain. To day at dinner we had quite a feast, a splendid soup, made of pemmican, and with barley, corn and Beans, onions, etc., then a second course of boiled fresh Beef, our facilities for roasting are not the best – as a dessert we had some cornstarch & syrup. We always finish every meal with bread and syrup, when there is bread. We had a great row about the bread some days ago. It was cut into slices and put upon the table in plates and each one helped himself, well the natural consequence was that some got more than others, a pound of bread a day divided into three meals is not a great deal to men with prairie appetites. The early birds in this got all the worms, and those who were detained for any reason usually got none. A great outcry was raised, and then at breakfast each mans pound of flour made up into bread was placed at his place at the table. We divided these into 3 parts each one according to his taste, put our mark upon the remainder which was for our dinner & supper. This plan we found to work very well. Before that the meals were anything but pleasant and anything but satisfactory, particularly at times, ravenously hungry I would get up from the table with an appetite as unappeased as when I sat down. This latter arrangement appears to do away with anything of the sort. The men complain a good eal of the short allowances they have – but nevertheless they seem to thrive upon it. The great hardship with them is when on the march, some of the teams play out and are unable to catch up to the camp for some hours in camp has to do with out anything to eat until it comes up.

The wind is blowing today in fitful gusts now & then a sputter of rain and then clears off. Towards the north a large prairie fire is still burning, huge volumes of smoke brood along the ground, it has been burning for five or six days. There has not been rain sufficient to extinguish it. The wind only fans the flame and gives it new force & vigour. Our sick list is gradually diminishing. We are to leave a camp with all unnecessary stores here under the charge of a constable & a few sub constables forming a depot for the provisions of the troops on their backward march. I will of course not be here again. From Bow River Troops B & C go on through the Blackfoot country to Fort Edmonton. A Troop has already gone there. Troops D E & F will return. We expect to reach Bow River by the end of this month, or the beginning of next. No one knows how long we will have to stay there but all hope to get away soon. Prairie life is pleasant enough and I cannot complain of being necessitated to endure many very great hardships but I too will be glad when I am lodged with shingles above & boards below with a good blazing fire. I shall not be at all sorry, more especially when I think I may find letters there from you. I look forward with trembling too – for perhaps I may be disappointed. I hope not, and I will not. Round camp here it is a lazy life. Sick parade at 9 a.m. then visit the sick who are not able to leave their quarters & then the rest of the day is to myself, interrupted however by stray calls from those who do not feel well during the day. Now & then a slight hurt or accident comes under our notice and demands some slight attention but never yet have we had any serious accident. To day[sic] while at church we almost had one. One of the cooks was trying to clean one of the shot guns and in the most foolish manner stuck the breech in the fire & left it, another cook who was working round the same fire managed to be in front of it as it exploded the discharge blew the breeches of the man to atoms, and inflicted a bad bruise upon his leg. It fortunately happened that there was no charge in the gun only a piece of rag which was saturated with gun powder, had it been loaded the man’s leg would have been shattered beyond redemption. I left church to see him, and placed the careless fellow who had stuck the gun in the fire under arrest. He will tomorrow have to answer for his extreme carelessness. There is a carelessness manifested in every thing connected with the force even the placing & posting of the guard around the camp & of the picquet around the horses. A band of Indians could as easily rule the camp and scalp us all before we knew it. More stringency in this respect will now be enforced as we are about entering a territory swarming with Indians who will never refuse a scalp when offered to them. But good bye. My letter must close the man is now going. Good Bye. My love to all at home & my dearest dearest love keep with you.

Barrie

Saturday, August 15, 2009

Camp Old Woman’s Creek, August 15th 1874

My darling Lizzie

I wrote to Jack yesterday in a great hurry having suddenly heard of an opportunity of sending a letter by Col. MacLeod via Wood Mountain where some person is on the 17th going to leave for Fort Garry. Today I have heard of another chance a large portion of Half Breed with horses have just met us on their way to Fort Garry. The head man is a friend and old schoolfellow of Dr. Kittson. I told you that opportunities would occur somewhat like this did I no?. They are all one sided however and only go one way. I wish I could hear from you, were it ever so short. I am starved for want of hearing from you. But never mind [?] [?] must come to all things and when I do get news from you they will be all the dearer & all the more greedily devoured. Just fancy the hubbub confusion, excitement, anxiety & crowded rush for letters when mail does come. And then the happy moments afterwards reading, rereading & again reading until every word is engraved clearly & distinctly on our memories. Ah but it’s something to look forward to. Almost (not quite) a full recompense for the long period of anxious expectation - & vexing uncertainty. I am glad that I am able to state with a clear conscience, that as yet I have killed no one – either medicinally or otherwise. As for my own health it is perfect without a flaw. I am strong as the ox (fabled) & am getting of an exquisite mahogany colour, which colour when I get warm takes on the beautiful polish the aforesaid wood is so famous for. Indeed at times I have a spinning countenance. I am happy comparatively speaking as happy as I can be without my tormentor [?] I have not audibly been called any hard names such as goose [?] head, donkey & other ladylike & civilized appellations. To tell truth I often wish I could hear such terms upon which I had learned to look as terms of welcome kindness[,] pity or love. I would willingly forego many pleasures to hear them again. I wrote to you from our camping place about 5 miles from this & sent it to Wood Mountain by an Indian guide. Before that my letter was by Capt. Walters who with Col. McLeod had left us to go to Wood Mountain for Pemmican – he delivered the letter in safe hands to go to Garry. I have no stamps. That is the thing I could not remember in Jack’s letter yesterday. Ask him to send me as many stamps as he chooses. After numerous trials & many disappointments I have at last succeeded in getting a tunic without any gold trim however and some grey cloth for riding breeches but I have to get these made up without trimming of any sort, buttons or anything else. I expect I will have to tie them together with Sagannappi [sic], it’s trimmings will in that case far outlast the cloth. You remember I told you I sent everything I did not consider absolutely necessary to Fort Edmonton from Roche Percée. The country through which we have been laterally passing bears the same leading characteristics as that before. Old Woman’s lake is quite a body of water – salt – tho’ scarcely perceptible in the taste, yet in its effects upon the men as was easily seen it was not like ordinary water. We camped just on the Lake shores and indulged freely in the luxury of a daily bath, the watering of the horses was a scene of life vivacity & confusion seldom witnessed along the quiet shores of the lake, one might easily made out for a mile and then be not over his depth, the bottom was a fine hard firm sand. Plenty of gulls curlews & ducks flew about and at a distance some pelicans were seen fishing. Col. French shot a pelican which I believe will be stuffed it measures more than eight feet from tip to tip of its wings which were tipped with black the beak long & the pendulous baglike lower lip of a bright yellow as also are the legs – the rest of the plumage is a glistening white. The artist has made a sketch of the watering of the horses, which is very like. The artist has lately been very busy, making sketches of the Indians and their encampment. As a rule they are very good. These will, I believe not be published until sometime in the winter when he returns to Montreal. I have not been making any sketches at all lately. I have not felt at all in the humor.

What have you been doing with yourself? Have you been taking some exercise? You must write and tell me all about yourself – what you do & is done to you – who visits you & what is the latest bit of news about your neighbors & friends & everybody and everything. Do you mind? See that you do – the smallest atom of news will be acceptable to me. If you should hear anything from home be sure and let me know of it. I wrote home before I left telling them to send their letters to the Hospital as before & they would be forwarded to me. You might ask Jack to call on Dr. McCollum and ask him to direct all letters for me to Fort Garry. If Jack sees the Dr, tell him to remember me most kindly both to him and to Mrs. McCollum. If Green is there to Gunn also to McAlpine in fact that I begged to be remembered to them all. He might tell Poulter that I saw some of the Boundary Commission. As I write there are two Indians on horseback in front of my tent. They have had an accession to their numbers today they appear to be finer looking fellows than the others. I stopped there and appeared at a general parade, to have some orders read out. Then the next excitement was three figures on horse back in the distance, they were approaching the camp at a rapid pace. Who were they? One turned out to be our guide an Indian the one whom I gave the letter from Old Woman’s Lake & with him came a stranger of whom the guide knew nothing he wished to join the force or at least to be hired as a guide, he speaks English well and Siox but no French – no one knows if he has any acquaintance with the Blackfoot language[;] an investigation is now going on of who & what he is & what he knows. I hope they will have nothing to do with him as he has a most cut throat appearance.

Last evening I enjoyed most thoroughly. I went down to speak to Capt. Miles in his tent and found quite a congregation there – singing – one or two really excellent voices – the choruses showed that a good quartette could easily be obtained in the camp, there was one fellow called Beattie who has a good Bass. They continued to sing – songs sentimental, songs comic – songs semi comic & the internals interspersed with remarks sarcastic – personal and general. They are at it again[,] Beautiful Star is now going in full fling – the tenor is good. Yesterday evening some of the Indians came over and invited us with a dance – it was done on a small scale – a Brave a fine broad shouldered fellow was the leader – he had on a blanket and a feather in his hair – he was accompanied by six or seven squaws who with the [?] vanity of their sex had various ornaments round their necks[,] in their ears – bracelets rings & some attempts at embroidery in their dress & moccasins. They formed themselves in a circle the leader with a mammoth child’s rattle began beating time – then all hooted – then they all began to chant in an uncouth rough monotonous unmusical and in unison a jargon – the leader keeping time & the circle moved round keeping both feet together and on the ground – they appeared to get more excited or at all events they moved faster & faster & they ceased and laughed. Our interpreter said it was a song about their memories the Blackfeet being snared & scalped – it might have been that or anything else. Their dance was interrupted by the discordant tones of a concertina playing a jig tune – some of the men then began to dance a jig & then a Scotch reel & finally ended in a waltz. The Indians apparently did not like this and went away looking decidedly huffed. The thunderstorm of which I made mention to Jack passed off with only one or two good gusts of wind which raised the dust in enormous clouds during the night – however a second storm was brewing and came up with a good deal of thunder and lightning & some wind but no rain more than a few drops. I had undressed and gone to bed but as the wind began to rise, I gradually put on one thing after another until I was entirely dressed boots & all. I expected the tent to come down every moment the wind was blowing straight against my side of the tent when suddenly I was awakened by a deafening bang & something struck me forcibly in the head. I could hear a confused stamping & struggling outside. I looked through the tent which now has a big hole in the side and saw an enormous horse struggling wildly and almost beyond the controls of the men around him. However they got him away and I afterwards found out it was the stallion which had broken loose and had bolted & was making straight for my tent on the full gallop when they just stopped him in time. Had he come on well you would not have heard from me again. That is the great danger in all these thunderstorms mainly a stampede of the horses. They become so terribly frightened. All day today I have been without a house my tent being in the hands of the tent maker mending the rent made last night as also sundry other rents made during the night when it was blown down of which I wrote you before. However it is now all fixed up and better than ever. The tobacco we draw from the stores is the most miserable beastly stuff, full of stems hairs of hemp and were small nails. You might ask Jack to call at Jaguiers on King Street and get five pounds of the kind I generally get – the long flat thick plugs and if it will not make the parcel too large send it up with the boots. It will reach me I expect some time in January and will last a long time. I will have lots & lots of time in the long winter evenings to smoke and read. My reading will I expect however be confined to medical literature as I have none but medical works – and probably there will be none other in Edmonton. Thank Jack ever so much for “93” & “Nancy”. I have read them and they are now going through the camp. “93” I intend reading again and trying to find out something about the numerous names mentioned therein. I have been reading a French novel called “Bibi-Tapin”. It is well written, and I find that with the exception of a phrase or a work now and then that I can understand it very well. The story consists of about 300 large double column pages about the size of an ordinary school atlas, it has a good many wood plates in it but never the less it is quite a mighty work. I have just opened my ink bottle and spilled my ink. I managed to get this one penful and suppose I must say goodnight tomorrow I will go (Sunday Aug 16) and borrow some.

Monday, August 3, 2009

August 3rd 1874

This is written at the noonday halt on Monday. We have travelled 18 miles this morning. I walked for a good two and a half hours & then rode in a wagon but by & by Capt. French who was not feeling well begged to exchange with me and I took his horse & he rode. The prairie is as gloomy & desolate as ever – little short brown dry grass & full of badger holes – very very dangerous to ride upon. I must close now in real earnest. Have you heard from Saida or any one homewards since I left? Goodbye again.

Yours,
Barrie.

Sunday, August 2, 2009

Camp Aug. 2nd 1874

Since the last opportunity of letting you know of my whereabouts at Rocher Percée we have been carrying out the programme. After leaving Roche Percée which we did on Wednesday afternoon we made a march of 10 miles to Wood End so called on account of the wood there being the last for a hundred of miles. We camped there the next day Thursday & cooked 3 or 4 days rations. Started from Wood End at 5 in the morning and camped on the banks of a stream – Saturdays march took us 28 miles farther West and we camped near some water in the open Prairie. We remain here over Sunday.

At Roche Percée I made application for my full kit & a horse but could obtain nothing – except blankets and a saddle so perforce I had to go in a wagon. At Wood End – we has a general muster. I took the first opportunity of spotting a horse but could not get it for my use – owing to its being required for a draught horse. I have now given up in despair the hope of obtaining a horse until we get to Wood Mountain. Rather a come down is it not? I like Kittson very much, he speaks English with a decidedly French accent. He is half brother of the Harry Kittson I knew in Lumoxville. The chap also went to school there, but before my time. He was in private practice at Berthier and recollects seeing & meeting Saida while she was there. Queer is it not how the world goes round – and one meets with unexpected people in out of the way places.

The man whom I am to have as Hospital Sergeant had a cousin at Sunnyville – a very clever fellow who used to stand always at the head of his form. The man is a Frenchman has studied medicine & at Edmonton will be invaluable among the French with whom I will there be brought into contact.

The weather has been strange in the extreme yet not altogether unpleasant, warm during the day with an exception now and again. The nights as a rule very cold, at Roche Percée the first night I was there it stood a 32º & ice was found on the river – and since then I do not think the minimum temperature during the night has ever been above 40º.

Since leaving Wood End we have seen no wood – but what we have brought with us and expect to see none for a day or two yet we are now about 6 miles from Wood End. Just fancy seeing 100 miles without a piece of wood so large as a lead pencil. We are now approaching the Buffalo country.. living animals are beginning to be seen. Buffalo skulls & skeletons more numerous & apparently fresher than they were. In lieu of Candlesticks we use one of the vertebra of a buffalo putting the candle into its spinal foramer. The Colonel went ahead the other morning with his shot gun and got 12 ducks for the mess. It was a very great change from the salt pork. I am attached to the Staff with exactly what work I cannot say. I dine at the Staff mess – and eat heartily too. Our tea last night consisted of tea – (no sugar, no milk) bread (no butter) molasses – fried duck, & fried pork. Breakfast this morning being Sunday was later & we had a swell breakfast Porridge & molasses & milk, coffee, duck, Bacon, Bread, butter & sugar for our Coffee. I do not know that I have increased much in size height or weight. But I know that I am feeling better than I have felt since I was at the Hospital.

By the By did you hear what Mrs. McCollum thought of my photograph? I forgot to ask you in the last, but make up for it now. Forgive me my dear Lizzie for not being more prepared for our utter separation or for not preparing you more for it. But I had no idea we should have so few opportunities for sending letters. I thought surely that at least twice or 3 times a month. I should have been able to hear from you and write to you – but I see now that it must be for less than that. I expect to send this from Wood Mountain unless I meet a portion of the Boundary commission going East when I will turn it over to them. In about 3 weeks we expect to reach Bow River and then our line of march will be virtually thro’ an enemy’s country – as the whiskey distillers will hardly regard us in a friendly aspect. Our direction will then be due North towards Edmonton. I do not know if the whole force will go towards Edmonton & perhaps the portion intending to winter in Garry will leave us at the South Saskatchewan & proceed as directly East towards Garry as it is possible for them to do so. Leaving us to find our way through the Blackfoot country to Fort Edmonton. Most likely the latter as it will probably be late in the Season and they will be obliged to hurry on. In January there will be one mail by Edmonton by dog sleigh – by what is known as the Hudson Bay Packet. Perhaps the Government may send a second one but it would be as well not to depend upon that in any way as it is only a surmise and has no foundation whatever.

I have been examining the water that we are forced to drink – with a microscope & there are animals in it that look like huge fleas – nice it is not – Some of them are not animalculae but are visible individually to the naked eye. However when boiled and tea made with them you can’t distinguish the animals from tea leaves so it doesn’t matter – Julien the artist is taking a microscope drawing of one now to serve to the “News” on the first opportunity.

I found out this evening what will be the most probable course of the expedition. We are now camping just on the 10th meridian of Longitude a few miles north of the 49th parallel of Latitude our course will be north west trending slightly to the West, to a lake called Old Woman’s Lake. Before we get there a party is to be sent off due west to Wordy Mountain (we will go north to that place) to get pemmican & will join us at Camp on Old Woman’s Lake – from thence our course will be west to Bow River at the Junction of which with the Belly River which is on the 112º of Longitude, we will do whatever is to be done & then the force will divide, the Garry troops retracing their steps to Old Woman’s camp & thence directly East of Fort Ellice & Garry, our detachment proceeding north-ward to Edmonton.

Col. McLeod[sic] & Capt. Walker are to take over the one leaving to Woody Mountain, and to the latter I am going to entrust this letter, with the hopes that the Boundary Commission will have an opportunity of communicating with the outer world before I will. I hope so sincerely. Now I want you to take good care of yourself and take plenty of exercise. I want you to look well and as tho’ you had enjoyed yourself while I was away at the wars. What did you do this evening? I took a walk as I said I would – all by myself out on the desolate prairie, yet it did not seem so desolate or so dreary for you seemed to be with me. I could almost hear you speak. A most beautiful sunset lightened up the west. The sky all day being dark and grey with dull heavy looking clouds. But the glories of the sunset made up for the dreary day.

Tomorrow morning reveille sounds at 3.30 and the force is to move off at 5. Pretty early hours eh? Last night two of the men went out about dusk to shoot ducks, night came on & they had not made their appearance, We could hear shots now and again at some distance in the marsh. They were to all intents and purposes lost. We called and sounded the bugles raised lanterns as high as possible and finally sent up a rocket, this last was too much for the horses who were hobbled in the marsh, they all took fright and began to stampede, such a rushing of feet, the very ground shook and in the moonlight a dense dark moving mass could be seen in the marsh, fortunately their hampered condition & the energetic endeavours of the picquet stopped them else we might have had a serious loss. The men in a couple of hours came in all right and avowed that they were not lost – but only shooting ducks. However they were placed under arrest and are not likely to attempt duck shooting in the dark again, at least not in a hurry. There are no Indians round here, the country would never afford them sustenance so my hair is safe for a time, till we get into a better country. It is now getting pretty late and I am tired and have to get up early in the morning so I will bid you good-night and if I have time will add a few lines to this. God bless you my darling. I am your own.

Barrie.