Camp Old Woman’s Creek, August 15th 1874 [ctd.]

As you see I have succeeded. Dr. Kittson was kind enough to lend me some. He has one of those magic inkstands pour in some water at one end & it comes out at the other a beautiful black ink. They are very convenient. Our guide who came in last evening brought a rumor from Wood Mountain that the Boundary Commission store at White Creek has been robbed by a band of Sioux Indians. Also that Capt. Cameron on his way to Wood Mountain had found five or six bodies laying exposed along the roadside scalped one was the body of a white man & he was tied to a tree and his body fearfully gashed. I do not know whether to believe him or not. Chapman says not. These Half Breeds & Indians love to bring news and cause a sensation. It makes no difference to them & should they be proved liars the next moment. I hope it is not true. In a day or two we will get authentic news from Wood Mountain. To day at dinner we had quite a feast, a splendid soup, made of pemmican, and with barley, corn and Beans, onions, etc., then a second course of boiled fresh Beef, our facilities for roasting are not the best – as a dessert we had some cornstarch & syrup. We always finish every meal with bread and syrup, when there is bread. We had a great row about the bread some days ago. It was cut into slices and put upon the table in plates and each one helped himself, well the natural consequence was that some got more than others, a pound of bread a day divided into three meals is not a great deal to men with prairie appetites. The early birds in this got all the worms, and those who were detained for any reason usually got none. A great outcry was raised, and then at breakfast each mans pound of flour made up into bread was placed at his place at the table. We divided these into 3 parts each one according to his taste, put our mark upon the remainder which was for our dinner & supper. This plan we found to work very well. Before that the meals were anything but pleasant and anything but satisfactory, particularly at times, ravenously hungry I would get up from the table with an appetite as unappeased as when I sat down. This latter arrangement appears to do away with anything of the sort. The men complain a good eal of the short allowances they have – but nevertheless they seem to thrive upon it. The great hardship with them is when on the march, some of the teams play out and are unable to catch up to the camp for some hours in camp has to do with out anything to eat until it comes up.

The wind is blowing today in fitful gusts now & then a sputter of rain and then clears off. Towards the north a large prairie fire is still burning, huge volumes of smoke brood along the ground, it has been burning for five or six days. There has not been rain sufficient to extinguish it. The wind only fans the flame and gives it new force & vigour. Our sick list is gradually diminishing. We are to leave a camp with all unnecessary stores here under the charge of a constable & a few sub constables forming a depot for the provisions of the troops on their backward march. I will of course not be here again. From Bow River Troops B & C go on through the Blackfoot country to Fort Edmonton. A Troop has already gone there. Troops D E & F will return. We expect to reach Bow River by the end of this month, or the beginning of next. No one knows how long we will have to stay there but all hope to get away soon. Prairie life is pleasant enough and I cannot complain of being necessitated to endure many very great hardships but I too will be glad when I am lodged with shingles above & boards below with a good blazing fire. I shall not be at all sorry, more especially when I think I may find letters there from you. I look forward with trembling too – for perhaps I may be disappointed. I hope not, and I will not. Round camp here it is a lazy life. Sick parade at 9 a.m. then visit the sick who are not able to leave their quarters & then the rest of the day is to myself, interrupted however by stray calls from those who do not feel well during the day. Now & then a slight hurt or accident comes under our notice and demands some slight attention but never yet have we had any serious accident. To day[sic] while at church we almost had one. One of the cooks was trying to clean one of the shot guns and in the most foolish manner stuck the breech in the fire & left it, another cook who was working round the same fire managed to be in front of it as it exploded the discharge blew the breeches of the man to atoms, and inflicted a bad bruise upon his leg. It fortunately happened that there was no charge in the gun only a piece of rag which was saturated with gun powder, had it been loaded the man’s leg would have been shattered beyond redemption. I left church to see him, and placed the careless fellow who had stuck the gun in the fire under arrest. He will tomorrow have to answer for his extreme carelessness. There is a carelessness manifested in every thing connected with the force even the placing & posting of the guard around the camp & of the picquet around the horses. A band of Indians could as easily rule the camp and scalp us all before we knew it. More stringency in this respect will now be enforced as we are about entering a territory swarming with Indians who will never refuse a scalp when offered to them. But good bye. My letter must close the man is now going. Good Bye. My love to all at home & my dearest dearest love keep with you.

Barrie

Camp Old Woman’s Creek, August 15th 1874

My darling Lizzie

I wrote to Jack yesterday in a great hurry having suddenly heard of an opportunity of sending a letter by Col. MacLeod via Wood Mountain where some person is on the 17th going to leave for Fort Garry. Today I have heard of another chance a large portion of Half Breed with horses have just met us on their way to Fort Garry. The head man is a friend and old schoolfellow of Dr. Kittson. I told you that opportunities would occur somewhat like this did I no?. They are all one sided however and only go one way. I wish I could hear from you, were it ever so short. I am starved for want of hearing from you. But never mind [?] [?] must come to all things and when I do get news from you they will be all the dearer & all the more greedily devoured. Just fancy the hubbub confusion, excitement, anxiety & crowded rush for letters when mail does come. And then the happy moments afterwards reading, rereading & again reading until every word is engraved clearly & distinctly on our memories. Ah but it’s something to look forward to. Almost (not quite) a full recompense for the long period of anxious expectation - & vexing uncertainty. I am glad that I am able to state with a clear conscience, that as yet I have killed no one – either medicinally or otherwise. As for my own health it is perfect without a flaw. I am strong as the ox (fabled) & am getting of an exquisite mahogany colour, which colour when I get warm takes on the beautiful polish the aforesaid wood is so famous for. Indeed at times I have a spinning countenance. I am happy comparatively speaking as happy as I can be without my tormentor [?] I have not audibly been called any hard names such as goose [?] head, donkey & other ladylike & civilized appellations. To tell truth I often wish I could hear such terms upon which I had learned to look as terms of welcome kindness[,] pity or love. I would willingly forego many pleasures to hear them again. I wrote to you from our camping place about 5 miles from this & sent it to Wood Mountain by an Indian guide. Before that my letter was by Capt. Walters who with Col. McLeod had left us to go to Wood Mountain for Pemmican – he delivered the letter in safe hands to go to Garry. I have no stamps. That is the thing I could not remember in Jack’s letter yesterday. Ask him to send me as many stamps as he chooses. After numerous trials & many disappointments I have at last succeeded in getting a tunic without any gold trim however and some grey cloth for riding breeches but I have to get these made up without trimming of any sort, buttons or anything else. I expect I will have to tie them together with Sagannappi [sic], it’s trimmings will in that case far outlast the cloth. You remember I told you I sent everything I did not consider absolutely necessary to Fort Edmonton from Roche Percée. The country through which we have been laterally passing bears the same leading characteristics as that before. Old Woman’s lake is quite a body of water – salt – tho’ scarcely perceptible in the taste, yet in its effects upon the men as was easily seen it was not like ordinary water. We camped just on the Lake shores and indulged freely in the luxury of a daily bath, the watering of the horses was a scene of life vivacity & confusion seldom witnessed along the quiet shores of the lake, one might easily made out for a mile and then be not over his depth, the bottom was a fine hard firm sand. Plenty of gulls curlews & ducks flew about and at a distance some pelicans were seen fishing. Col. French shot a pelican which I believe will be stuffed it measures more than eight feet from tip to tip of its wings which were tipped with black the beak long & the pendulous baglike lower lip of a bright yellow as also are the legs – the rest of the plumage is a glistening white. The artist has made a sketch of the watering of the horses, which is very like. The artist has lately been very busy, making sketches of the Indians and their encampment. As a rule they are very good. These will, I believe not be published until sometime in the winter when he returns to Montreal. I have not been making any sketches at all lately. I have not felt at all in the humor.

What have you been doing with yourself? Have you been taking some exercise? You must write and tell me all about yourself – what you do & is done to you – who visits you & what is the latest bit of news about your neighbors & friends & everybody and everything. Do you mind? See that you do – the smallest atom of news will be acceptable to me. If you should hear anything from home be sure and let me know of it. I wrote home before I left telling them to send their letters to the Hospital as before & they would be forwarded to me. You might ask Jack to call on Dr. McCollum and ask him to direct all letters for me to Fort Garry. If Jack sees the Dr, tell him to remember me most kindly both to him and to Mrs. McCollum. If Green is there to Gunn also to McAlpine in fact that I begged to be remembered to them all. He might tell Poulter that I saw some of the Boundary Commission. As I write there are two Indians on horseback in front of my tent. They have had an accession to their numbers today they appear to be finer looking fellows than the others. I stopped there and appeared at a general parade, to have some orders read out. Then the next excitement was three figures on horse back in the distance, they were approaching the camp at a rapid pace. Who were they? One turned out to be our guide an Indian the one whom I gave the letter from Old Woman’s Lake & with him came a stranger of whom the guide knew nothing he wished to join the force or at least to be hired as a guide, he speaks English well and Siox but no French – no one knows if he has any acquaintance with the Blackfoot language[;] an investigation is now going on of who & what he is & what he knows. I hope they will have nothing to do with him as he has a most cut throat appearance.

Last evening I enjoyed most thoroughly. I went down to speak to Capt. Miles in his tent and found quite a congregation there – singing – one or two really excellent voices – the choruses showed that a good quartette could easily be obtained in the camp, there was one fellow called Beattie who has a good Bass. They continued to sing – songs sentimental, songs comic – songs semi comic & the internals interspersed with remarks sarcastic – personal and general. They are at it again[,] Beautiful Star is now going in full fling – the tenor is good. Yesterday evening some of the Indians came over and invited us with a dance – it was done on a small scale – a Brave a fine broad shouldered fellow was the leader – he had on a blanket and a feather in his hair – he was accompanied by six or seven squaws who with the [?] vanity of their sex had various ornaments round their necks[,] in their ears – bracelets rings & some attempts at embroidery in their dress & moccasins. They formed themselves in a circle the leader with a mammoth child’s rattle began beating time – then all hooted – then they all began to chant in an uncouth rough monotonous unmusical and in unison a jargon – the leader keeping time & the circle moved round keeping both feet together and on the ground – they appeared to get more excited or at all events they moved faster & faster & they ceased and laughed. Our interpreter said it was a song about their memories the Blackfeet being snared & scalped – it might have been that or anything else. Their dance was interrupted by the discordant tones of a concertina playing a jig tune – some of the men then began to dance a jig & then a Scotch reel & finally ended in a waltz. The Indians apparently did not like this and went away looking decidedly huffed. The thunderstorm of which I made mention to Jack passed off with only one or two good gusts of wind which raised the dust in enormous clouds during the night – however a second storm was brewing and came up with a good deal of thunder and lightning & some wind but no rain more than a few drops. I had undressed and gone to bed but as the wind began to rise, I gradually put on one thing after another until I was entirely dressed boots & all. I expected the tent to come down every moment the wind was blowing straight against my side of the tent when suddenly I was awakened by a deafening bang & something struck me forcibly in the head. I could hear a confused stamping & struggling outside. I looked through the tent which now has a big hole in the side and saw an enormous horse struggling wildly and almost beyond the controls of the men around him. However they got him away and I afterwards found out it was the stallion which had broken loose and had bolted & was making straight for my tent on the full gallop when they just stopped him in time. Had he come on well you would not have heard from me again. That is the great danger in all these thunderstorms mainly a stampede of the horses. They become so terribly frightened. All day today I have been without a house my tent being in the hands of the tent maker mending the rent made last night as also sundry other rents made during the night when it was blown down of which I wrote you before. However it is now all fixed up and better than ever. The tobacco we draw from the stores is the most miserable beastly stuff, full of stems hairs of hemp and were small nails. You might ask Jack to call at Jaguiers on King Street and get five pounds of the kind I generally get – the long flat thick plugs and if it will not make the parcel too large send it up with the boots. It will reach me I expect some time in January and will last a long time. I will have lots & lots of time in the long winter evenings to smoke and read. My reading will I expect however be confined to medical literature as I have none but medical works – and probably there will be none other in Edmonton. Thank Jack ever so much for “93” & “Nancy”. I have read them and they are now going through the camp. “93” I intend reading again and trying to find out something about the numerous names mentioned therein. I have been reading a French novel called “Bibi-Tapin”. It is well written, and I find that with the exception of a phrase or a work now and then that I can understand it very well. The story consists of about 300 large double column pages about the size of an ordinary school atlas, it has a good many wood plates in it but never the less it is quite a mighty work. I have just opened my ink bottle and spilled my ink. I managed to get this one penful and suppose I must say goodnight tomorrow I will go (Sunday Aug 16) and borrow some.

Camp Aug. 2nd 1874

Since the last opportunity of letting you know of my whereabouts at Rocher Percée we have been carrying out the programme. After leaving Roche Percée which we did on Wednesday afternoon we made a march of 10 miles to Wood End so called on account of the wood there being the last for a hundred of miles. We camped there the next day Thursday & cooked 3 or 4 days rations. Started from Wood End at 5 in the morning and camped on the banks of a stream – Saturdays march took us 28 miles farther West and we camped near some water in the open Prairie. We remain here over Sunday.

At Roche Percée I made application for my full kit & a horse but could obtain nothing – except blankets and a saddle so perforce I had to go in a wagon. At Wood End – we has a general muster. I took the first opportunity of spotting a horse but could not get it for my use – owing to its being required for a draught horse. I have now given up in despair the hope of obtaining a horse until we get to Wood Mountain. Rather a come down is it not? I like Kittson very much, he speaks English with a decidedly French accent. He is half brother of the Harry Kittson I knew in Lumoxville. The chap also went to school there, but before my time. He was in private practice at Berthier and recollects seeing & meeting Saida while she was there. Queer is it not how the world goes round – and one meets with unexpected people in out of the way places.

The man whom I am to have as Hospital Sergeant had a cousin at Sunnyville – a very clever fellow who used to stand always at the head of his form. The man is a Frenchman has studied medicine & at Edmonton will be invaluable among the French with whom I will there be brought into contact.

The weather has been strange in the extreme yet not altogether unpleasant, warm during the day with an exception now and again. The nights as a rule very cold, at Roche Percée the first night I was there it stood a 32º & ice was found on the river – and since then I do not think the minimum temperature during the night has ever been above 40º.

Since leaving Wood End we have seen no wood – but what we have brought with us and expect to see none for a day or two yet we are now about 6 miles from Wood End. Just fancy seeing 100 miles without a piece of wood so large as a lead pencil. We are now approaching the Buffalo country.. living animals are beginning to be seen. Buffalo skulls & skeletons more numerous & apparently fresher than they were. In lieu of Candlesticks we use one of the vertebra of a buffalo putting the candle into its spinal foramer. The Colonel went ahead the other morning with his shot gun and got 12 ducks for the mess. It was a very great change from the salt pork. I am attached to the Staff with exactly what work I cannot say. I dine at the Staff mess – and eat heartily too. Our tea last night consisted of tea – (no sugar, no milk) bread (no butter) molasses – fried duck, & fried pork. Breakfast this morning being Sunday was later & we had a swell breakfast Porridge & molasses & milk, coffee, duck, Bacon, Bread, butter & sugar for our Coffee. I do not know that I have increased much in size height or weight. But I know that I am feeling better than I have felt since I was at the Hospital.

By the By did you hear what Mrs. McCollum thought of my photograph? I forgot to ask you in the last, but make up for it now. Forgive me my dear Lizzie for not being more prepared for our utter separation or for not preparing you more for it. But I had no idea we should have so few opportunities for sending letters. I thought surely that at least twice or 3 times a month. I should have been able to hear from you and write to you – but I see now that it must be for less than that. I expect to send this from Wood Mountain unless I meet a portion of the Boundary commission going East when I will turn it over to them. In about 3 weeks we expect to reach Bow River and then our line of march will be virtually thro’ an enemy’s country – as the whiskey distillers will hardly regard us in a friendly aspect. Our direction will then be due North towards Edmonton. I do not know if the whole force will go towards Edmonton & perhaps the portion intending to winter in Garry will leave us at the South Saskatchewan & proceed as directly East towards Garry as it is possible for them to do so. Leaving us to find our way through the Blackfoot country to Fort Edmonton. Most likely the latter as it will probably be late in the Season and they will be obliged to hurry on. In January there will be one mail by Edmonton by dog sleigh – by what is known as the Hudson Bay Packet. Perhaps the Government may send a second one but it would be as well not to depend upon that in any way as it is only a surmise and has no foundation whatever.

I have been examining the water that we are forced to drink – with a microscope & there are animals in it that look like huge fleas – nice it is not – Some of them are not animalculae but are visible individually to the naked eye. However when boiled and tea made with them you can’t distinguish the animals from tea leaves so it doesn’t matter – Julien the artist is taking a microscope drawing of one now to serve to the “News” on the first opportunity.

I found out this evening what will be the most probable course of the expedition. We are now camping just on the 10th meridian of Longitude a few miles north of the 49th parallel of Latitude our course will be north west trending slightly to the West, to a lake called Old Woman’s Lake. Before we get there a party is to be sent off due west to Wordy Mountain (we will go north to that place) to get pemmican & will join us at Camp on Old Woman’s Lake – from thence our course will be west to Bow River at the Junction of which with the Belly River which is on the 112º of Longitude, we will do whatever is to be done & then the force will divide, the Garry troops retracing their steps to Old Woman’s camp & thence directly East of Fort Ellice & Garry, our detachment proceeding north-ward to Edmonton.

Col. McLeod[sic] & Capt. Walker are to take over the one leaving to Woody Mountain, and to the latter I am going to entrust this letter, with the hopes that the Boundary Commission will have an opportunity of communicating with the outer world before I will. I hope so sincerely. Now I want you to take good care of yourself and take plenty of exercise. I want you to look well and as tho’ you had enjoyed yourself while I was away at the wars. What did you do this evening? I took a walk as I said I would – all by myself out on the desolate prairie, yet it did not seem so desolate or so dreary for you seemed to be with me. I could almost hear you speak. A most beautiful sunset lightened up the west. The sky all day being dark and grey with dull heavy looking clouds. But the glories of the sunset made up for the dreary day.

Tomorrow morning reveille sounds at 3.30 and the force is to move off at 5. Pretty early hours eh? Last night two of the men went out about dusk to shoot ducks, night came on & they had not made their appearance, We could hear shots now and again at some distance in the marsh. They were to all intents and purposes lost. We called and sounded the bugles raised lanterns as high as possible and finally sent up a rocket, this last was too much for the horses who were hobbled in the marsh, they all took fright and began to stampede, such a rushing of feet, the very ground shook and in the moonlight a dense dark moving mass could be seen in the marsh, fortunately their hampered condition & the energetic endeavours of the picquet stopped them else we might have had a serious loss. The men in a couple of hours came in all right and avowed that they were not lost – but only shooting ducks. However they were placed under arrest and are not likely to attempt duck shooting in the dark again, at least not in a hurry. There are no Indians round here, the country would never afford them sustenance so my hair is safe for a time, till we get into a better country. It is now getting pretty late and I am tired and have to get up early in the morning so I will bid you good-night and if I have time will add a few lines to this. God bless you my darling. I am your own.

Barrie.