Cypress Mountains, August 27, 1874

My dearest Lizzie

My last to you was from Old Woman’s creek where we formed a cripple camp leaving there all the men & horses unable to go on and the surplus stores – we have journeyed on meeting with no more Indians but two days after leaving there we met a party of traders amongst whom was a Roman missionary who is on his way to Edmonton where I suppose I will meet him again, he is a tall skeleton of a man with the crown shaved but hair about half an inch long & a beard moustache & whiskers of six months growth on clad in a rough priestly garb he has been in this country for 19 years – he could converse in English & French but was frequently at a loss for a word. He knows Indian best – we had a rainy night once – the tent leaked and I was on the rainy said – consequently before the night was over I found myself in a pool of water. I moves and got in a bigger pool I moved back & went to sleep covering up my head & throwing my water proof sheet over me as well as possible. I was thoroughly wet but so with that I slept soundly all night long. My clothes were all wet in the morning which was the worst. However I suffered nothing more than the personal inconveniences and that was all over as the sun rose. We are now in the country of the Buffalo and it will not be long before we see a great many – we have come across numerous dead ones – some that have been killed within a month – but as yet no living ones. On Saturday last I gave back the horse I had been riding as it was a worn out plug ugly, scarred & fearfully frightened. I found that if I kept it – I should never get another and would in all probability be asked to purchase it – so I took to walking again on Saturday I walked twenty-two miles and on Monday I walked 25 and on Tuesday 15. The last was the hardest I did it all on a stretch – although part of the mountains. I was dreadfully thirsty & nor near any wagon – to get a drink. But happily I found a small spring in one of the many ravines. I tell you I was thankful & I enjoyed myself most thoroughly. We had our first deer today. It was killed by our guide a halfbreed. We are camped now in a large valley between two ridges of the Hills – by the side of the small lake – there is not much grass and the water is hard to get at – we are obliged to wait in this neighbourhood for a time as McLeod then Ass’t Commissioner has gone off to get more oats for the horses. We got to this place on Tuesday about 12 o’clock & have been camped here since. My watch or rather your watch nearly came to grief yesterday. I had put my coat & vest on one of the carts and was walking in my shirt sleeve. My watch was in my vest pocket the vest fell off the cart & several cart wheels passed over the vest but fortunately the watch escaped the buttons on the vest were all crushed. My health bears up wonderfully well. I have nothing to complain of in that tone except my appetite which is voracious causing me to desire to eat more than is good for me. I manage to get enough to live upon very comfortable & have gained 3 lbs in weight since I joined the force, 3 lbs a month will make 36 lbs a year, will make 108 lbs in 3 years so if an enormous man – rough mannered in short sunburnt & weighing 248lbs comes at the expiration of 3 years to see you you will know me by that – and also by a cut on the joint of my right thumb. So you must look carefully so as to be able to recognize me when I do come back. This is the greatest country for winds – the wind blows with such unobstructed violence pushing along – whistling among the tent guys – and causing the tents to flap and shake till one would think they would come down every moment. What forcibly reminds one of that is the flickering of the candle by which I am now endeavouring to write – every now and again I put my hand in my pocket for a match as the candle has apparently gone out – but it generally flares up again. Did I tell you that Chapman and I have been separated our little square tent which we inhabited together has been given to another set and we turned over to other tents. My tent mates are Capt. Brisebois Lt. deFaut Capt of cavalry in the Yankee Army – also an officer in the Popal Louaves – a Frenchman & Roman Catholic with his hair cropped short it stands up like a wire scrubbing brush – he is about a medium height and strong with a neck like a bull dirty bad tempered very nervous. The other is a young fellow about my age from Cornwall. His name is Allen – he is quiet and rather good looking – he knows a Wood Jarvis & others from Cornwall. Brisebois is from Sherbrooke and also knows lots of my old school fellows. It will not be long now before we are at Bow River at every halting place the Col. takes an observation and trys to find out where we are – but he cannot make out exactly our long. He makes us here to be north a few miles of the 50º Lat. we have been obliged to come this far north to avoid going over the Cypress Hills. According to Palliser’s map we have yet 160 miles to go but Palliser’s map has been proved to be so incorrect that we are uncertain how far it really is – the guides do not appear to know any more about it than we do. And after the Bow River I have over 200 miles north to go to arrive at Fort Edmonton. The officers who are going there have been talking of getting up a mail during the winter – each one to subscribe so much – hire a halfbreed & team of dogs – send down to Fort Garry & have him bring back what then is there for us – and if the Government does the same & the Hudson’s Bay Jackets and they do not all come together that will be three mails during the winter and not only one.