July 25th

I have had as you see no opportunity of sending this nor will I for another week. I am afraid that Mr. Cameron was right after all. Mr. Chapman and I reached the rear guard of the Police – consisting of the Red River Carts on Thursday evening at a place called the second crossing of the Souris, because there we cross the Souris river for the second time. The night we camped at the river with a fierce prairie fire raging on the opposite side in spite of which we all slept soundly. But I must begin now in detail. We started from Dufferin on Friday with 2 men 2 teams as horse & wagon provisions for 10 days. After leaving Grants the Half breed’s farm we made camp. Chapman’s horse got mired trying to get a drink. We got him out and had a nice time cleaning him & the saddle. The camp was just on the confines of a prairie which we had been crossing all day, a deep ravine wooded behind us & fur trees in either side with an almost boundless stretch of prairie in front. We made tea & thoroughly enjoyed our friend pork & hard tack. We also instituted a watch & more to see the way in which our horses might be stolen than from any hope of saving them if any attempt should be made. It was weary work after a long days drive to sit awake for two hours during the night. I forgot to say that I this morning began my first experience of riding. I rode all the morning and drove during the after-noon. I felt a little sore & tired but otherwise I did not ride hard all the time. The horses were miserable beasts half starved and one of them miserably sick. I took a sketch of part of the prairie by our camp. The next morning we were off [ ] & for dinner stopped at a puddle of water for an hour or two – it was just in the middle of a rolling prairie, undulations of the ground rolling onwards like the ground at sea for miles & miles, no tree or rock to break the distance till then fade away with the faint blue horizon. I rode all the morning, in the evening we camped in a beautiful valley sunk in the middle of the prairies, the sides of the valley sloping upwards very steep & terminating in prairie, a stream flows through the valley – and the mosquitoes are fearful. Bright and warm is the morning we are off again the horses looking a little fagged but eating their oats well. We passed the cusp of the Police about 4 miles on through the wildest looking country I ever saw at noon we came to another stream & another camp of the police – we halted for dinner – having made about 25 miles. We had to turn one of our horses loose here as it could go no further. We then proceeded along. I riding and keeping a good long distance in front, we were gradually rising higher and higher above the level of the sea over ranges of smoothly winded hills, all being covered by a short thick dried grass presenting no trace of green on all their extended surface – but nestled in among some rather more prominent mounds – shut in on all sides would be a lake or pond or marsh or dry land ground covered with the rankest most luxuriant grass of the richest shades of green & yellow – which curlew flew & at times duck could be seen flying about. The water at times is good, at other times very salt & salt in crustations all around its margins. We camped tonight in a beautiful spot[,] a river very sluggish – but its banks fringed with trees – rushes birds of all kinds hopping about & singing – such a change from the dry stillness of the prairie. I here took a small sketch of the river. My turn to keep watch came on at 2 in the morning. Oh it was lively then I can tell you in every dark object I could fancy I saw moving imagining it to be an Indian until I went up to it & find only a bush or stump any unusual noise would be construed into an Indian signal – if the horses were restless they smelt an Indian. I was not so much afraid of my scalp as of the horses – if they were stolen our provisions would also go & we should starve or be reduced to the extremity of eating one another. However morning came & no Indians we started off in fine style and traveled over the interminable prairies we could find no water in the evening until late at night, the thirst we suffered was terrible & the poor horses – with heads down wearied, stepping out – about 9 o’clock we found a beautiful spring hidden among some bushes, it was the merest chance. The chance was providential and we were very thankful. My how the wind did blow that night a thunder storm at some distance, the lightning was fearfully with the wind blowing a perfect gale. Mine was the first watch of the night, and every moment I thought the tent would blow down – or the wagon topple over. However by 12 o’clock nothing had happened and I retired to sleep and oblivion. The next day we made the 1st crossing of the Souris after a journey in all respects similar to the previous ones. The sun was exceedingly hot and I got my face and hands pretty well burned, more especially as I was riding and had exchanged my hard hat for the scotch cap – at the first crossing of the Souris we found the remains of a Police camp where the evidently had camped for a couple of days. It was a lovely spot a broad valley with the river running through it winding about like a silver thread, the banks fringed with thick woods. The valley was shut in by high banks almost precipitous & on reaching the top they immediately go off into the dead [ ] of the prairie. We found two oxen left behind by the Force and two horses that had perished. The next day we were off and traveled as before until noon when we came across a piece of burnt prairie and of all the desolate looking things or places this was the worst for miles and miles nothing but an expanse of blackened ground – bare of any vestige of green not a sign of life even the little gophers a sort of chipmunk had disappeared – nothing but the barren bleak desolate burnt ground, which was hot from the fire and from the sun the wind blew small particles of ashes & dust in our eyes and rendered them sore, at the termination of the fire we found a marsh where we watered the horses and had dinner consisting of hard tack cold pork and sardines. We then pushed on[,] Chapman’s horse gave out so he and one of the men remained behind to lead it, we met one of the police riding back to look for a cow but as we had not seen it he rode back with us giving his horse to Chapman. We reached the second crossing of the Souris about 9 o’clock – pitched our tent & proceeded to have supper. Chapman did not get in until after 10. We found a number of the Police in the ox carts – had remained behind, the rest of the force having gone on in the morning that night the ox train with the cattle moved on. There was a report here that during the day a party of Sioux to the number of 150 has passed & taken all the provisions from a party of the Boundary Commission who were stationed there. However we kept no watch that night as we were all too tired, and we felt a sense of security from our proximity to the police. In the morning we started off and by noon came upon the oxtrain, had dinner and rested for an hour or two and again started off. We made about 20 miles after dinner & about six o’clock came upon a few wagons that had not been able to keep up to the train so we encamped along with them and the next morning Chapman & myself walked into the camp of the police about 10 miles further on. We had some breakfast at the mess and then reported to the Colonel. The Col. is a tall man with rather a hard face I think & fond of giving a rub now and again to show he is boss. Still if I do my duty & he can do nothing to me. Of the other Officers Capt. French seems to be a jolly Irishman. I think I can get along all right with him. He was very much obliged for the letters & parcel I brought him. He is a long lanky fellow over six feet tall with an Irish accent & is apparently a jovial chap. Col. McLeod[sic] the second in command is a gentleman & fine looking. Col. Griffiths the Adjt. Is very kind and obliging & I am sure I will like him. The others I have seen but seldom and am hardly able to form an opinion. Dr. Kittson is about 30 years of age, athletic fond of sporting & hunting and with very fair professional abilities. He will be an easy chap to get along with. I am to draw my uniform etc. here. I have blankets waterproof sheet & Pistol already, the rest I will have to get here. The meals are pretty good considering. There is plenty of pork, hard tack, some bread which is heavy as lead, tea, sugar, at times wild duck, at others Beef, soup etc. My work began the day after I arrived here which was on Saturday morning Sunday I went to Kittson’s tent & helped him through with the sick parade & to day Monday I undertook it myself and succeeded to my entire satisfaction. There are none really ill a few cases only of local distress. You will notice that our course from Dufferin has been almost due West along the road under by the Boundary Commission and will continue so until we reach Bow River which is about six hundred miles West of this then we will turn northwards & make for these whiskey distillers endeavor to make them stop their whiskey trade or fight them. The force will return by way of Fort Edmonton where a portion of them will remain for the winter and I will be left in charge of them Dr. Kittson being with the forces in headquarters at Fort Garry. I am well pleased with this sort of life and think it agrees with me. The name of our present camp is Roches Percée from the fact that in the valley where we are encamped is a rock of the limestone formation, the winds & rains & snows have so worn the softer parts that the rock is fissured in every direction & a big hole has been formed through its middle. In one of the future Canadian Illustrated you will see a picture of it drawn by their special artist by the name of Julien – a dirty-looking little Frenchman who draws very well indeed while I am thus writing about him he comes to look at some of the sketches that I have taken and thinks very well of them. So I suppose I ought to alter my opinion about him but I cannot.

I think Fort Garry would be a better place to address my letters than Dufferin – to the Assistant Surgeon N.W.M. Police Fort Garry. They will then forward them to Fort Edmonton or wherever I may be if an opportunity occurs.

I intend writing to Dr. Workinan Dr. McCollum and to Mannie to day. Tell Jack to try and send me some stamps. The uniform measure at McEachren’s will be of no service to me, so nothing need be said about that unless he charges for the mere measurement. The boots are finished I should like sent out to Fort Garry. How do you like my photos? Do you think them good? How did you enjoy your trip to Chicago – with the Taylors? Has Jacks Postal card chess game finished yet and if so who won and if not who has the advantage?

Remember me to Frank Darling – tell him I wish he was along, this Julien has $1400 a year from the Illustrated news – can’t Grip afford a special artist and send Frank – ask him.

Now darling don’t you be in the blues because you don’t often hear from me. I think of you always last night I took a quiet walk down the valley and in all the stillness of the wilderness saw things to come, lifted the veil of the future and with fond longings cried out for the present to pass – for the unknown yet certain to be at hand, unknown for we do not know in what positions we will be nor what out circumstances yet certain in our mutual all abiding love – for this can never change – never grow cold – can it Lizzie? Never mind no cloud but has a silver lining – let us hope that ours will be golden. Fort Edmonton is not so far as the Rocky Mountains, or not so far as it might be. Tis a long lane that has no turning. But all this proverbial comfort is almost worst than no comfort for it brings so strongly into the foreground the long period of separation – which we must endure.

The weather has been very pleasant – quite warm during the day and during the nights quite cool. On Saturday night the Thermometer stood at 32º freezing point and there was ice on the river! At this camp a detachment of the Police came down from Fort Ellice – and they with Troop A are on Wednesday morning going back & are the bearers of our mails so this will have travelled with me, from Grants farm near Dufferin to Roche Percée & from thence to Ft. Ellice & Fort Garry – a long way and a roundabout one for a letter to take is it not.

And now my own darling I must say goodbye. Give my love to your mother and Sallie. Remember me most kindly to all inquiring friends Probably from Wood End or from Woody Mountain Depot. I will have another opportunity of sending you a line. Good bye for a period. May our God shower his blessing upon you and comfort you.

Goodbye

Yours forever
Barrie.

P.S. Remember

Nevitt
Assistant Surgeon
N.W.M. Police
Fort Garry

Grants Farm, On the Boundry Line. July 18th 1874.

Lizzie My darling

I arrived in Dufferin about 10 o’clock landed just on the bank of the River in the mud & weeds – presently some of the aborigines came down and soon one or two of the M.P. on the sick lists & now convalescent – Capt. Clark & the Paymaster & one other officer were going down to Winnipeg on the boat. I saw & was introduced to Capt. Clark. He does not follow the force but remains at Fort Garry. It was not long before I met Mr. Chapineau the guide, he is a tall lissome fellow, quite handsome & deaf. Mrs. Ford Cissy’s friend had told me of him. A wagon & two teams had been left behind for me. I took on all my baggage tho’ warned that 10 lbs was the limit allowed. I have no horse as yet. I am going to ride some to day however – to get used to it. We have to wear a badge consisting of a lue & red ribbon tied on our hats or around our arms as a protection against the Sioux. Commissioner Cameron of the Boundary Survey has concluded a treaty with them. And this badge is a sign – the force has gone on and is now about 50 miles ahead of us, we expect to catch up to them in two or three days. On our way up we drove one pair of horses in our wagon & led the others, one pair had the misfortune to break loose two or three times and we had to send back for them – which delayed us considerably. I do not know yet what our direction, our address will be, but think that if anything will reach us a letter to Nevitt Assistant Surgeon N.W. Mounted Police Dufferin. We are taking on a lot of letters to them now, also a large mail for the Boundary Survey & such opportunities will arise during the course of the summer. The Police expect to get back to Garry for the winter – a portion being left at Fort Ellier Pely & Edmonton – during the winter a monthly mail will be established between Garry & the outposts. We have along with us ten days rations hard tack pork tea & sugar, with a few boxes of sardines, and a gallon of whiskey. Chapman takes this along & he ought to know what to take – it is vile stuff. The mosquitoes have not yet been excessively troublesome but enough to keep me awake in the wagon yesterday evening. Goodbye for the present. We are just about starting 10 miles beyond the Pembina Mountains about 40 miles from here is our destination for tonight. Goodbye – goodbye.

Steamer Dakota July 16th, 1874

My dear Lizzie

I write on board this magnificent steamer of the Riltsow – Red River Transportation Company – 95 ft in length – 20 ft broad & stern wheel. I never was upon such a crooked river in my life as this far passed Red River of the North. It twists and turns & winds about – beating the classic meander all to bits – our boat heads to all points of the compass North East West South.

I left St.Paul on Monday morning early – and after a very dusty tiresome ride of 24 hours arrived in Moorehead. The boat was there & the stage. I could go by either. The friends of the boat said river – cool, no mosquitoes. The friends of the stage on the other hand extolled the stage – short, cheap, start at once. I chose the boat, but alas it did not leave and it was necessary to stay over an entire day in Moorehead. Moorhead must be that place vulgarly termed the jumping off place – it is situated on the edge of a vast prairie – the Northern Pacific R.R. passes thro’ it, & the telegraph poles dwindle down to a fine point in the dim perspective. There is no street in this village – but two half streets – meeting at right angles, the houses are built on these two half streets one set facing the River the other the Railway – there are 8 saloons & refreshment rooms – the refreshments of course being liquid, a shoemaker, a tavern a drug store & 2 groceries the four latter sell liquor - & in the tavern is a billiard Room – in which during the day I played billiards. I also took a couple of sketches but owing to Indian snakes & mosquitoes they do not do justice to the scenes they are supposed to present.

I left Moorehead Wednesday morning - & my McIntosh at the same twice - & never remembered it until I got about 20 miles down the river. Mrs. E.B. Wood & 2 children & 2 servants had the distinguished honour of accompanying me from Moorhead – they are on their way to Winnipeg. I am writing this expecting to reach Dufferin tomorrow morning and will there post it. Remember me to all & give my kind regards to Miss Taylor.

Good bye my darling. God bless you.

Your own
Barrie

St. Paul’s Minnesota July 12th 1874

My Dearest Lizzie

I arrived here this morning about 6.30, after a very fatiguing journey from Chicago. I am obliged to remain over here until tomorrow morning at 8.30 when I leave by the Lake Superior and Mississippi RailRoad for a place called Thompson’s Junction not far from Duluth, & thence onwards to Moorhead, where I expect to be at 4.50am Tuesday. Thence by stage to Pembina, which strange to say no one can tell me how long it will take or what the fare will be. I must take things as they come.

After breakfast today, I endeavored to get a nap but the somnolent God was not to be wooed, and after an unsuccessful trial of an hour I gave up & went out for a walk. It seemed like Sunday not a bit, most of the Stores were open, all the Lager Beer Saloons all the tobacconists, & many groceries dry goods etc. Sounds of rollicking song & the drinking of glasses came from the numerous pot houses. The Street Cars were running, & the streets pretty lively.

St. Paul’s is built on a high bluff on the banks of the Mississippi, there is a very high bridge built across the river, the bridge being much higher on the city’s side and reaching the other shore by a steep incline, a beautiful view up and down the river can be obtained from it. I had a good wash this morning and feel a good deal better for it.

I wrote you a note in pencil from Chicago & had to give it to a stranger to post giving him a silver quarter to buy a postage stamp. I hope you will get the letter. Now don’t you fret for me Lizzie will you mind? Keep up a brave heart and try to take things easy. I am going to try to enjoy myself and I am certain I cannot if I think of you at home sorrowful and in the blues. I am going to try every Sunday evening to have a walk, such as we took the other Sunday up to Bloor Street. (You won’t forget it?) I won’t be alone for I will think of you & what you will be doing and of what you will be thinking. Bear up old woman, you know every cloud has its silver lining and so has this one tho’ we may not be yet able to see it. I must run down to dinner & will write some more afterwards. Bye bye for the present.

7.30 P.M. If the Sleepy God was perverse this morning he made up for it this afternoon by being exceedingly propitious and I slept the entire afternoon only waking in time for tea. I think I have enough in me to sleep all night as well. After I went down, while smoking in the Station saw the train from Chicago come in, & one on the Western Wisconsin River go out then back to talk with you. Dear child how I wish that you had or could have come with me. I do not want to hold out false hopes but perhaps before I return for good you may have a turn of camp life, that is if I thought you would like it and it was not too rough for you. How happy I should be you know yourself. You remember those two proverbs you quoted to me that night on the steps, & wondered (what need of wonder?) which one would prove true in our case. One of them is proving true, I hardly thought it possible but it is. My absence makes my heart grow fonder, and the sweet consolation of those last few happy days we spent together does hardly soothe me, rather makes me wish for more. They were happy were they not? In spite of the sadness and the dread surety of parting. Lizzie you must take care of your health now that I am away & let me see roses in your cheeks when I come back. If you do not feel well & are (God forbid it) ill, send for Dr.McCollum at the Hospital, will you promise me? Don’t go to Hall – Dr. McCollum I have the fullest confidence in. I do not know why I think of this, but I imagine you eating sugar to cure everything & with an old humbug to urge you on to eat more. I do not feel easy, I sincerely hope and trust that you will have no cause to call to anyone in that way, but if it should happen, if any such need should arise, oh Lizzie promise me I entreat you to send for McCollum you will like him, he has nice manners & a pleasant address, and is so calm and unflurried by the bedside. Now that I am away from you and cannot come see you, I feel as tho’ all sorts of things might happen to you. God Bless and keep you under his all protecting arm is my earnest & oft repeated prayer.

The sky is pretty well clouded over and it is now rather dark. I must close as I want to post this tonight.

Tell Sally thank you again for her thoughtful present to me. And now again I say goodbye – Dear Lizzie – Good bye.

Your own
Barrie

Chicago July 11th [1874]

My dear Lizzie

I have no pen & have to descend to a common lead pencil. I arrived all safe & in good time -a little dusty- but not much. I saw Fergie in London the last I saw of him was a figure crouched up under an umbrella peering into the passing train endeavoring to gain a last look at me, it was raining hard.

The train is just about starting so I must close - you will have to pay the postage as I have no time to get stamps. Goodbye.

Yours for ever [sic]
Barrie

My Dear Lizzie...

This blog has been compiled via transcripts & archival material from the Glenbow Museum in Calgary, Alberta, Canada, based on hand-written letters from Dr. Richard B. Nevitt (1850-1928) to his future wife, Elizabeth Eleanor Beaty (1852-?). These letters document Dr. Nevitt's experiences as an assistant surgeon in the North-West Mounted Police during the journey to (and construction of) Fort Macleod, Alberta.

Blog postings will be made on the same day as they were originally written (some 135 years later) beginning tomorrow, July 11th.

The original documents were donated as a gift to the Glenbow Museum by Dr. Davidson Black (1920-1988) in 1988, with further letters being donated later in 1989 by Mr. and Mr. A.A. McArthur.

Dr. Nevitt was also fond of both sketching and painting. As some of his work is preserved in the art collection of the Glenbow Museum, relevant works will be posted as this blog unfolds.