Fort MacLeod [ctd]

Nov. 19th. It is now a week since I last wrote to you. The teams I told you of as being expected in with letters came & brought me a letter and a great disappointment. I got a letter from Father in answer to one I wrote him from Ft. Benton – this was dated from Savannah Oct. 7th. It took just 13 days for my letter to reach him from Benton. I expected one from you but I was disappointed there, however better luck next time. There are other teams some at Fort Hamilton – may be in any day – they also may have leters. The second are Conrads & are stuck in the snow which is over three feet deep – they have sent out about 60 oxen more to bring them along. They have no letters but a good deal of stuff for us & in such we stand in a great deal of need. Since I was last writing we have has some very cold weather the thermometer being down 26º & 28º below zero. The average temperature fr the past week has been only 2º.

Fort MacLeod [ctd]

Nov. 12th

I do not know when a mail will go out or when ours will come in. I had a letter written waiting for you also one for Frank Darling and one for Harry Stotesburg a large wagon train is now expected in every day – it was heard of the day before yesterday at the St. Mary’s River. Is only 3 days from here – whether this has letters for us no one can tell. Every night in the candles a large bunch of letters points to me I look at them & wonder if they will be soon here. We have made a checker board & checkers of gun wads & now pass the evenings in friendly contests. Euchre – poker – whiskey poker too – Fare – Vingteten playing for gun wads – whiskey poker was played for tobacco. I never played for anything but gun wads & they are always given back at the end of the game. We are now likely to get into our quarters before the six weeks I spoke of are out – we have changed the mode of building – from cross logs to pickets. The first of these little drawings is meant to represent the cross log mode the latter the picket – with pickets a trench is dug & the logs set up on end and the logs are much shorter & more easily handled than in the other cross log mode. I will try when the place is built to draw you a small sketch of the place and send it to you. In that you may have some faint idea of the appearance of things around me. you would laugh to see me handling the pick & shovel. I bet you I can beat the Corporatino workers in Toronto. I have become quite an expert in their use – the axe too I can handle quite deftly – at heaving logs I am a lumberman – sawing with the cross cut saw is child’s play. I feel my arms and legs & back very very sore and stiff but there is nothing like more work to take that out of a man. The hardest work of all is mudding the chinks – we bring a stiff blue clay that is found in profession here & mix it with water & slap it as hard as we can into the chinks between the logs – it is so cold that the mud & water freeze into great huge lumps or freeze on our hands – which have to be held in the fire until the outside coating of ice melts. The pain is sometimes almost unendurable till we get used to it – and every day now gets colder & makes it worse yet it has to be done – the outside work is the hardest – when we get to doing the inside we can have warm water to mix the mud & will be protected from the wind. I had to stop & sign the sick Reports & then went over to see some sick Indians. They gave me a pair of Buffalo moccasins with the hair inside very warm. This may be said to be my first fee in the great North West from the noble redman. I got one pair from a half breed for attending to her child. By the time I was through with the Indians it was dinner time & after dinner I walked up the river 4 miles to a traders - & heard that he expected a train in from Benton every day – he had heard they were only 25 miles from here yesterday. He thinks too they have letters for us they left Benton 20 days ago. I hope sincerely they have letters. Oh what a disappointment if they have not and what pleasure if they have. Conrad is going to send his ox teams back to Fort Benton and the remained of our horses go back with him. Most probably he will take our letters too. One of our mens quarters 100 feet long is all ready for the roofing – which will in all probability be done tomorrow – then the others will follow in quick succession but numerous things yet remain to be done. It has begun to snow again to night and how long it will keep up no one knows. The weather is pretty cold all the time never even at noon being above freezing point. I wonder what you are doing. This evening after tea at 6.30 I had a smoke. I know you did not do that. Then the Col. & Winder & the Adpt. Crozier – began talking of the Fort Garry times. The Winder and I had a game of checkers in which after a protracted game he beat me. now I am writing to you. Did I ever tell you of my tent mates since we came up here. We have a Bill Tent – round – and there are three of us in it. Capt. Winder commanding “C” Troop – a tall man with whiskers & beard of a reddish brown nearly bald – very quick in his way but full of jokes & a certain dry humor – he is from Compton near Lennoxville – and knows a good many of the people around there whom I used to know and heard about. He has been in California too & is quite a traveled man. Capt. Jackson is the very quintessence of fire the chance bristro Irishman he has red hair & a pair of fierce moustaches which he persists in curling he has strange coloured eyes – not green not grey but a mixture of grey & red. He is always playing a practical Joke on some one. He has command of the artillery we have. He is from Seaforth near Coderich. Very hot tempered but obliging. We get along together quite nicely. Our mess has an addition to it of Col. MacLeod – the Assist. Commissioner of the force – after every meal of course we have a smoke and discuss the affairs of the force & the probabilities of the weather but always fall back into talking of Homes & homie belongings. I believe I told you that he is connected with the Baldwins in Yorkville and also knows the Amour’s of Bowmanville in fact at one time he used to live in Bowmanville and was in partnership with Mr. Armour. He is a very nice fellow to have anything to do with. He is from Kingston and knows the Andersen’s & Fred Nelson quite well. So putting all together we have plenty to talk about. It is now nearly bed time so I will say goodnight for the present.

Fort MacLeod [ctd]

Nov. 2. Yesterday evening I took a short walk – but it was very cold – the thermometer being below freezing. We have been told time and again that this snow would only last for a day or two but now it has been on the ground for more than a week & the weather is getting colder and at the same time we hear stories of the extreme cold of winter which beat all that we have hitherto heard. At one time it was a most beautiful climate quite fairy like – now it beats that of Manitoba for extreme cold. It is strange what stories are told. My sick report for a day or two was very large no less than 26 being upon it – more than one sixth the whole strength of the force it has however dwindled down to a much smaller number only 12 this morning and 4 of them able to return to their duty. I wonder that more of the men are not sick – what with tramping around in the snow and slush in moccasins full of holes or boots without soles and sleeping in the cold tents. They must be pretty good men not to come in. When I come back to you I will be a hardy veteran and what is worse and awkward boor. I am sure I will have forgotten how to behave myself. I had at Fort Benton a slight inkling of how much I had forgotten and now with perhaps three years of loneliness and without womans’ refining influences can you imagine a more pitiable object than myself stuck down in a ladies drawing room? Don’t let us look so far forwards – unless you promise to take me under your protecting wing and before my appearance again in society teach me all the little kindly mannerisms of good behavior so I will not bring disgrace upon you by suddenly being turned loose. Very nearly four months of the thirty-six have gone by – that is about one ninth of the whole time – which leaves only eight ninths to be gone through. Is that not a great deal shorter than three years? I do not now even expect to get a leave of absence during the summer. If Kittson and the remained of the force come up next summer – I will probably be left at the fort with any sick there may be – or I may be moved up to Fort Edmonton or to the Bow River at old Bow Fort or anywhere that a new post may be established. So it will be good bye to all my big tour dreams. I must say good bye for the present. I don’t know when this will go – and will add a few lines before it does.

Your own

Barrie

Fort MacLeod [ctd]

I forgot to date this letter at least this last sheet. All on this page was written on Sunday the first of November only three weeks now to my birthday and if I don’t get a letter from you by that time I shall indeed be bitterly disappointed. Now do try like a good girl and let me hear from you. Of course you have written but also this horrible mail we have been here nearly a month and there is no sign yet of hearing from you or from home. I am getting very much discouraged – almost a fit of the blues – only that would help me – as I have not got you to talk it out of me – or play softly and the blue devils out by the piano. Did you ever receive the letters I wrote to you on the march? And the one from Chicago in lead pencil? It is a queer country out here and the people themselves are queer. Last night Conrad finished a portion of his store and his men had a dance – a home warming over the event – the music was furnished by some men from the police in the form of a concertina and two pipes – the shouting and the sight of merriment were great. I did not go over to see them but judged only from the external signs. I supped at Trinity College the other day[;] the usual Sant Gimmons and Judas supper with James. Did you hear anything about them? If you see Frank Darling tell him that I will as soon as possible fulfil my promise of writing to him. I suppose he is getting along as well as ever. Tell him that he and Jack & Mannie had better make up a party next summer and come out and see me. come by the way of the Northern Pacific Railway to Bismarck and thence up the Missouri to Fort Benton then they will have to take their horses – and come on. I will promise them lots of hunting and fishing and we can pay some of the Indians visits. I may be able to take them up to St. Mary’s Lake where salmon Trout are as thick as the sands of the sea. Mr. Cameron’s mouth will water if he hears of such an abundance of fish that only require to be caught not only salmon trout but the ordinary speckled trout are in the greatest numbers. It is great sport I am told fishing for 1 hour through the ice. If you can get them before the snow falls – the ice is so clear you can see the fish in the water under your feet. But all the hunting and fishing does not in any way make up for the loss of the letters. It would be quite bearable if I could only hear from you. Of course when we expected to go to Edmonton we had made up our minds to a long long period of silence but here it is so aggravating to know that letters are on their way or are waiting for us within a known distance and still not be able to get them. ‘Pon my word, I would not hesitate to rou the mail if I knew it contained letters for me and I should meet it anywhere. I am afraid my letters are very egotistical and harp upon one complaining strain but human nature is often all human nature – and if I did not cry out about the letters I would find other causes of discontent. There is no news here to tell you the same regular course of work on the building goes on every day. We began on the stables 'for the horses were more able to be killed by any sudden cold. You will have some idea of the magnitude of the building when I tell you that the stables were to be 120 yds in length by 8 yds wide 7 ft. high at the eves. Then then mens quarters & hospital 80 yrds long the same width - & the officers quarters and quartermasters storehouse will be 80 yds long & the same width – then the powder magazine and force. When you consider too that the logs all had to be cut & set together and then the cracks filled up with bits of wood & then plastered with thick mud. The roof made of timber small round or larger split in half - & then on the left of this – a coating of mud six inches thick & thus on top of all six inches more of dry earth – then the chimneys to be built & the windows and doors made. It is an immense undertaking especially when begun so late in the season.

Fort Macleod, Oct. 31st 1874

My dear Lizzie

My last was only a few days ago – with a short account of our sufferings from the storm. I am happy to be able to state that a Chinook wind that is to say a warm wind sprung up & now we are in danger of being drowned out. These are minor evils. The men work pretty well – all things considered but with the most assiduous labor I see in prospect but canvass until way into the middle of November. A party of our men started out today for Sun River – taking with them 64 of our weakest horses they did not go as soon as I expected and my other letter was sent by a party by the name of Powers who was going to Ft. Benton.

Several ox teams of Conrads have arrived today & with the number of wagons & the stove of Conrads & the Fort – the place has assumed a very busy aspect next year we may expect a larger influx of settlers of all descriptions. The country up here has been opened up only for 3 or 4 years & already there are 8 or 10 trading posts in this one river & various others on other water courses. The country around us is one capable of cultivation if it had been irrigated. That is the great trouble in this country. They say there is coal up near the head waters of this river but pretty far up. I see no way for making a strike for a fortune up here except in stock raising & them on is liable to lose all his horses by Indian raids. True my profession would pay if there was anyone to be sick for up here I could chose what I liked – no medical man being nearer than Fort Benton. I may be able to do a little outside the Force but how I am to get paid I do not know. The other day I went with Dengs one of the officers in a boat up the area it was pretty hard rowing so many shallow rapids – after going up as far as we could we got out and took our rifles & went hunting – we got about a dozen prairie chickens and ducks we saw a Beaver and tried to shoot him but he was too quick for us. It was extremely cold – the water splashing on the oars froze where it fell the bottom of the boat was ful of ice. We floated down the current – with our pipes in our mouths – and drawing large blasts of tobacco which looked larger from the vapor expired at the same time. Possibly you could not see much fun in boating with the thermometer below zero – but it was all so strange and we were full of life & vigorous and the hard tramp thro the snow & trash had set us all in a glow. I am sure I enjoyed myself. The mountains looked glorious – full of snow which showed off all their peaks & crusts – the huge fissures in their sides & the dark line of forest – I want to try and take a water color sketch of them but when they look best just after sunrise it is so cold the water freezes and I cannot paint. I am very much afraid that we will not be able to get the officers quarters done at all this winter tho’ if we do not I am sure I don’t know where we will go. Tents will hardly do with the thermometer -40º.

Fort MacLeod [ctd.]

Oct. 28. No news & the mail goes at once. Goodbye my own darling.

Your own Barrie

Fort MacLeod [ctd.]

Oct. 27th. Last night was bitterly cold altho’ a beautiful still moonlight night – at 9 o’clock the mercury was 3 degrees below zero & at 3 a.m. 10º below – at 7 o’clock this morning with the bright sun it had only risen to 32º. My eyes but it made a fellow’s fingers tough. For all the cold the building operations were proceeded with & will now go on only to be interrupted by a fierce storm later in the Fall. The great trouble out here now is to obtain hay for the horses. No one here expected to have much to do with such a mixture of horses – consequently cut us hay except for their own use – what hay could be cut after our arrival was cut but that has amounted to almost nothing. I expect that a portion of our stock will have to go to Sioux River in Montana for the ensuing winter. A patient has just interrupted me – a half breed woman and child – her baby is only a few weeks old possibly six and as it is her first she thinks every time he cries he is extremely ill. Our consultation was lengthy and most ludicrous. I would gravely state the various symptoms in the child that I saw & calmly ask for more – she would then chatter away in Indian poly-syllables. I would then politely request her to repeat what she said – Chatter Chatter Chatter. I would at that give a sage hum of assent and tell the woman with a most sagacious face that I thought she was making a great ass of herself that the child was perfectly well but as I could not satisfy her in any other was I would give her something. I made up four little powders of sugar and went through all the motions of mixing in a spoon and taking it & then shut my eyes pretending to sleep to show that each powder was to be given at bedtime – she chattered volubly her thanks or whatever it was and departed all smiles. Once before I gave her some alum – a large handful for curing some skins at the same time. I looked at the baby & she imagined this alum was for the baby & was going to chuck this huge lump into the little things throat. If she tried that game this time she can’t hurt the child anyhow.

I had another case [of] a woman whos arm had been shot at the elbow but her husband was along & explained matters altho’ her case was plain about him. Did I tell you of the capture of a gang of whiskey traders with a portion of their alcohol? Shortly after we arrived here a couple of Indians reported that an outfit had gone up Old Man’s River to trade whiskey – so a body of 10 men & an officer were mounted & went after them – they were found with all their available goods & chattels packed up & moving off – they were all brought back & their alcohol poured out their Buffalo Robes confiscated & themselves fined. One of their number is a negro named Bond – accused of murdering a number of Indians and who is also suspected of murdering a family in Chatham Ontario some time ago. The others have paid their fines or had them paid & have gone – no one could be found to pay the poor devil’s fine and he has had to remain in the guard tent ever since and probably will for some time. This spell of cold weather can scarcely have been agreeable to him.

What is the news with you? How is everyone in Toronto? Does Sallie still keep up her drawing? Tell me everything you know hear or see. Tell me of yourself your outgoings & your evenings at home. I am starving to hear from you. A wagon is going into Ft. Benton tomorrow or the day after & will take in this letter & I hope it will bring some out. I should not be at all surprised if the wagon should carry this negro Bond to Ft. Benton & take him on thence to Ft. Garry for his trial – or it may only be for letters or only to carry the men’s baggage who go to Sun River to herd the horses. Six months more and communication will be free with Benton – and everything will be bright and green but until then – we can expect nothing but the bleak winter with storm and slush – a south wind always brings the latter – more snow fell during the storm than we had supposed on the level prairie it was more than six inches deep & drifted in places so deep that it was with difficulty a horse could wade through it. However we have a stove now & can put up with the lesser inconveniences of crowding things into an extremely limited space. There will soon be a second opportunity of sending a mail of which I will avail myself at present I will say goodbye as I wish to write home and let them know how I am getting along. I will not close this until the last moment in order to have the last word with you and give you that latest reliable information from the Great NorthWest Territories.