June 19th

This morning we are to have our cricket match, the conquering game with the subConstables. The day is very fine & I hope that we will be victorious. Well we did not get the win. But I must tell you that I hurt my thumb so that I can’t write very well. I managed to get it between the bat and the ball and mashed it a little.

June 18th

This is the anniversary of the battle of Waterloo 60 years ago. To day we were favoured by an Indian dance in the Barrack square. The North Peagans all bepainted and gaily caparisoned bore down upon the Fort and tying their horses outside – formed a ring in the middle of the square. They all had bows and arrows & there were 5 or 6 drums along. The drummers got in the middle of the ring & began to drum, the others keeping time & making a klick klick klick with their arrows against the bows. Two men lay down on the ground some distance from the circle & covered themselves with their buffalo robes. After playing a short prelude the ring began to throw stones etc. at the two recumbent figures, who after submitting to the treatment for a while, finally jumped up, threw off their robes and began dancing towards the ring, entered it and then giving a signal all suddenly rose up & throwing off their blankets began dancing – every one as naked as could be – their faces, arms, breasts and legs painted up – they divided into two bodies under the leadership of one of the two [?] ones. These two companies advanced and retreated alternately – finally with a yell they all rushed to their places and put on their blankets. This is the ‘Bear Dance’. And most certainly it was the most savage and wildest thing I have seen amongst the Indians. After their dance we gave them a smoke and a feed. They then repeated their dance and went away highly delighted.

June 17th

This morning was excessively sultry & warm. About two o’clock we i.e. Capt. Winder and I went down to Conrad’s to get him to go with us to this Peagan camp. We wanted to see the Big Medicine Pipe Dance so we went over provided with some flour and coffee & sugar, crossed the river in the boat & then walked along thro’ the bush towards the camp – but we had to cross a big slue or coulee with a swift deep current. A party of Indians came riding along on their little ponies – and we jumped up behind them & were ferried over. You would have been amazed to see us: all of us pretty long-legged fellows behind a painted savage & astride a diminutive little pony – under whose belly we could almost lock our feet - & gallantly they bore us thro’ the rushing flood. I had brought my colours with me and while Capt. Winder & Conrad went to pay their respects to the old chief I started off to take a sketch of the camp.

I sat myself down on a hill side looking West – and began to sketch – first one child came near me & then called another & another & then older men came & women until I had around me nearly the entire available strength of the camp. A stark naked little Indian boy was not two feet in front of me dancing with all his might & making medicine at me – set on by the older people around. It was most amusing to hear their exclamations and to see them recognizing the various points as they appeared on the paper. I finally had to come down in order to let the old chief get up his dance – no one would come to it while I was sketching.

Well the dance began – a big roll of skins tied up in a peculiar bundle was set in the middle of the wigwam & the old men & women sat around the wigwam - & the orchestra consisting of 9 drums. The old chief took a piece of lighted punk and put some aromatic substance afore it & set it down in front of this bundle – then in the most solemn manner and amidst a deep & impressive silence proceeded to divest himself of his shirt & to put on a new one. Then undoing the roll of skins- he after untying innumerable strings came upon 3 or 4 bundles made of red flannel – these he held over the smoke of the aromatic herb, then proceeded to untie them & after a long series of wrappings at last came to the stem of the Medicine Pipe. This is a long wooden stem polished & ornamented with a profusion of ermine skins being terminated by a tassel of brilliant red & yellow wool or dyed hair towards the lower end are suspended about a dozen eagle’s feathers dyed vermilion and blue – with a couple of small bells on each feather – there are also other feathers of bright colours in various parts of the stem. This was taken out to slow music by the band and the old chief danced around the lodge and then went outside and held it up towards the sun – then came back and a young man took it and did the same, then an old squaw, then a boy & finally a little child hardly able to walk danced with it. Then they took from the same receptacle another red bundle which proved to contain a whistle. This was danced around with & blown always upwards towards the sun – a huge rattle like a dried gourd was now produced and it was danced with. The drums all the while keeping up an incessant clatter & the shrill voices of the women now and again breaking in with their wild wailing chant. As a heavy storm was coming up we bade a hasty adieu and borrowed some horses to cross the coulee and went home – not without getting a thorough soaking however.

Fort McLeod, June 16th, '75

My darling Lizzie

Again I nearly had a fit of Les diables blues – but I fought them off. Was I not brave? Baker left this morning – the mail was sent down to him at three o’clock this morning. The day turned out pretty fine and we had some cricket. In consequence of the late heavy rains & warm rains – the river had risen pretty high. Our bridge is in danger of being carried away – the middle pier has been so washed out that it has sunk about a foot & a half. If the water rises no higher the bridge may remain steady.

A lot of Indians have been coming in, North Peagans - & the Kootanies are expected in. Father Scullen is waiting here until they come – after that he intends going up to the mountains. I intend trying to go with him – some half breeds are also going up with us – to fish. If I get away I expect to have a very pleasant time. I will also try and take some sketches of mountain scenery.

Fort McLeod, June 15th, 1875

My darling Lizzie,

I will go on answering a few thoughts in your letter of May 3rd etseq. before I tell you what has been going on to day. I left off about John coming to Canada – if he does get him acquainted with Frank Darling. I think they would like one another. So you are going to lose Saida. If you went home with her you would not lose her so quickly and so to the heat - & the climate. Athens is as healthy a place as you could find in Canada. During the summer the average temperature I could bet is less than that of Toronto. You know Athens is in a very hilly country near the southernmost spur of the Blue ridge mountains. The nights are nearly always cool and pleasant & people do not go gallivanting about the streets in the full glare of the hot sun. I wonder what subject you will take up to study. Suppose you try mathematics. Your Father would be delighted to help you in so far as Algebra was concerned. The late rains have caused the river to rise very high. The bridge that we took so much trouble to build – is in danger of being washed away, the middle pier has already sunk about a foot – the water comes with fearful force against it. The North Peagan Indians have been over the cut bank across the river all the morning – we expect the Kootanies in every day. I received the pleasant news to day that Baker is going in tomorrow to Benton and will take in a mail – so this goes off tonight. I do not know who wrote ‘Rain in the Heart’. Cissy Stotesbury could perhaps tell you – she sent the piece cut from a newspaper to Aunt Ellen in Savannah. I do not recollect if it had the author’s name attached or not. Of course it is written from that line of Longfellow’s ‘Into each life some rain must fall, Some days must be dark & dreary’.

I certainly had a cold – but I was not afraid of any of my medicines – but I thought that it would get well of itself – which it did and saved me making some of my faces. Your last letter tho’ very dilapidated in appearance was all right on the inside – and none had fallen out. I cannot help drawing a conclusion from your letter. What is to become of me – if when you are happy you tease & when angry scold me? Dear me what a life to lead. Tell Jack that I have received some of the ‘Practictioners’ and also some numbers of the Canadian Monthly. I expect they have come from his thoughtful mind also and am sincerely thankful. The publication of my letters has been quite sufficient to break down a paper-mill – well how weighty they must have been. Indeed poor darling I do feel so sorry for your cold. I am glad you took some ‘hotstuff’ for it – you should have taken it after getting into bed and then piled the blankets over you. I should like to have dropped in upon you during the Spree.

I am glad to learn from the later pages of your letter that your cold succumbed so easily – although it no doubt caused you great annoyance & trouble at the time. So poor Mr. Crawford is dead. I see by the papers that Mr. Brown will not accept the Lt. Gov.ship but it has been conferred upon the Hon. D.A.M. McD. Will he be any more acceptable to you than the Hon. G.B. ? I have been endeavoring to write while an excessively voluble old Half-breed named Munroe about 80 years old with very gray hair and one eye whose lower lid is turned outwards red & glowering – he talks a mixture of French & English and uses all the gesticulations of the Indian. He is talking of the Native medicines. How he does rattle on. Were I not trying to write to you I should be pleased to hear & listen to him. I must close this now. I really can’t get rid of this old chief & cannot possibly write with him taking. I shall however before this goes write a little more.

Well I am glad to say that the old chap has gone. But it is getting very late and I must send this off. Give my love to all at home and with the best love of my heart from your own

Barrie

June 14th

Nothing in particular going on today. We expect the Kootanie[sic] Indians along with the Stonies[sic] in very soon. The river is rising very fast – hardly fordable now –

No dear I do not forget that the first party given in your house was in May nor that I was much more miserable then than I am now. So Cissy and Mr.Ford are engaged – I thought all along that something would come of it. Well Ford is a pretty decent fellow and as Cissy takes after her Father more than her other parent – she is a nice girl. I am much obliged to Mr. Fred McDougall for the welcome he intends to extend to [?]. In what capacity is he coming up here and in connection with what government - that of Manitobah [sic] or the Northwest Territory. If he goes to Pelly or Ga…[?] my chances of meeting him are very slim.

Whose was the Architects office? I do not think John would accept it for a permanency – he might merely for the sake of seeing Canada but he may consider it more to his purpose to remain at home taking what odd jobs he can get – until he turns something up for himself. If he does come I am sure you will be kind to him – for my sake.

Now good bye
Your own Barrie

June 13th

This morning sick parade was held at half past eight to allow Father Scullen to have Mass at 9 o’clock, and hardly was Mass over before the other churches had their parades. At Mass we had all the Half Breeds over – it was quite a sight to see all the women with their shawls of all hues drawn over their heads and their sparkling bright eyes – roving round the room – in spite of their devotional attitudes. After lunch I had three or four patients to attend to amongst the Half Breeds and then in the afternoon I went for a walk with Capt. Winder down to the bridge. While there we met a couple of men – one a half breed the other a white man – followed by two women half breeds, one about 25 years old in a pink dress and pink sun bonnet – carrying a baby strapped to a board – the other much younger about 15 – very freckled and short and stout in a chintz dress of a Dolly Varden pattern and a bright shawl drawn over her head. All on horseback and all [ ? ..ing] their horses [?] fashion. Our curiosity was roused. We proceeded to investigate the affair [?...ing] to find out who they were. Our diligence was rewarded for we discovered that they were from Whoop Up and had eloped to be married by Father Scullen. Think of that, a runaway match in the North West! Father Scullen married them this evening. I was very sorry that I could not see the ceremony but I did not.

This afternoon just before dinner we were visited by a very heavy thunderstorm which passed directly over our heads. My how it did rain – my room was again a mass of water but as I had taken the precaution of putting everything destroyable under cover I got nothing wet.