Feb 14th

Alas the day has passed without the looked for letters. The end of the week will doubtless bring them. This morning after breakfast I lanced old Frank’s leg he bore it without moving a muscle and has had marked relief from it. He is quite happy now. The day has been very fine tho’ a little cold. The back bone of the winter is pretty well broken. I have had a good many Indians in my room today, some to talk and some to sketch + others because I could not help them coming in. One was a very fine looking fellow over six feet tall + broad + sinewy, he was very much pleased with my sketch of him + promised to bring me a buffalo robe for it, not because I gave it to him but because he felt flattered. At first I had no intention of giving it to him but afterward I did, and he went away excessively pleased. This evening after dinner while we were sitting around the Mess fire, we heard a great noise of the Indians + going out found they were having a dance at Conrad’s. We went to see them but such a crowd went in that they could not dance + they all went off in a huff. I expect that you were quietly in church just then. I wonder what you are doing now, 10 o’clock? It must be about 12 in Toronto, so I suppose you are sleeping soundly. Dear Dear Lizzie, I do so want to see you again. I am getting awfully tired out here by myself. I wish I could bring you out here, but that would hardly be fair. Anyway, it is useless to wish impossibilities, so that is our end of it. The Mail will tell me something about you + make you feel nearer. Good night.

Saturday Feb 13th

After being away about 10 days Crozier returned last night. Information has been laid before Col Macloed that whiskey was being traded north of us + Weatherwax was suspected of being mixed up with it. So Crozier with a party of men started up. It was dreadfully cold the first night or two, but they arrived safely at High River + found the birds had flown. Their forts were destroyed. We met one of the traders named Smith, managed to get direct evidence of his having traded whiskey and so brought him along. They started out with a wagon, but about 46 miles from the Fort had to leave it + build a sleigh. This too they had to leave on account of the snow + pack their food + bedding on pack horses. Crozier says the soil up there is much richer + better than it is down here, but the general character of the country is much the same. We were all very glad to see Crozier back again. The Indians up in that part of the country, he said, were dreadfully afraid of the soldiers. For instance, they had stolen a couple of horses, Crozier had demanded them, one was near at hand + was immediately delivered up, the other was at their Camp 8 or 9 miles away, it was late in the evening when the demand was made. That night when all was fast asleep, a knocking at the door wakened them (They were in a trader’s fort) + an Indian was found with the horse + this at 12 midnight. Father Scullen [Scollen] is the Roman Catholic missionary out there, he seems to be a jolly kind of man + frequently gives the Indians a good sound drubbing going at them with his fists. He is a Dublin man + well educated, has been out in this country for 12 years + expects to leave his bones here. I have a patient now under my care, an old Frenchman, cook at Fort Kipp. I expect to have a little operation on him tomorrow, he has an abcess in his shin bone. I am going to try + take it out. This Frenchman is a strange character he is from Berthier Quebec, says he is only 48 years old + looks 80, from the person he talks about, people who know say he must be 70 at least. He is called by everyone Frank Missouri or simply Missouri. He is partly deaf + talks but a little English. And now I must tell you what is confidently expected. A Mail letter next week, just think of it. Our man is probably now on his way out from Benton, or will start tomorrow or Monday, + will reach here sometime during the week. How anxious I am to hear from you is known only to you and I. Tomorrow will be St Valentine’s day, surely that is a harbinger of letters, or ought to be. Don’t you think so?

The time passes now quickly, perhaps because we are now more used to it, perhaps because I have something to keep me busy. The Blackfoot language is a fine melodious language, here is a specimen Ninā-ākă-afoi-wōsin-o-ma[oma]-kistowā-otā-wōsin-tāpix – which is short for British American or Canadian. The “ā” is pronounced ‘ah’ broad, the ‘ă’ like the ‘a’ in fate the ‘o’ long “oh” the “i” like ‘e’, + accented a little over the accents. Isn’t it a dear little language with sweet little mouthfuls for words? I must now say Good night for it is getting late.

Febr. 12th

I have been prevented from writing since the ninth by various things, but will endeavour to give you some idea of what was going on. Let me see this is Friday the 12th. Wednesday was the 10th nothing of my moment happened. Denny and I had intended in the evening going up to Crowfoot’s Camp, as there was a big dance there but Col. McLeod made us try our hands as signaling with lights. This kept us until nearly nine o’clock but Denny and I not to [be] frightened by a cold night + a walk of two miles, arrive at the Indian encampment at a fashionable hour, we took along with us some coffee molasses + cornmeal. The arrival of our august presence, with the aforementioned luxuries added new zest to the dancers. We were ushered into a lodge about 12 ft in diameter + managed to pick our way + to find a seat. The lodge was densely packed. There were 3 rows of Indians all around, + on about half the circumference the crowd was about 4 or 5 thick. Six drums gave us a chiming noise. We remained there until nearly one o’clock. It was very amusing to see how the Indians enjoyed the mush + molasses. I carried on a desperate flirtation with no less than four squaws, they made me get up + dance again + again. One of them had managed to get more than her share of the mush + being obliged to get up + dance, was in a quandary not knowing what to do with her porridge. So I galliantly came to her rescue + took her porridge + hid it. When suddenly I was called upon to dance. So I had to take this tin can full of mush and putting my glove over it, held it high over my head + danced. I enjoyed myself very much. On Thursday we had a visit from Crowfoot and several other Indians + in the evening we practiced for several hours at signaling. To day the morning passed as usual until 11 o’clock when Weatherwax’s trial went on for the examination of some witnesses who were obliged to leave before the real trial came off. Nothing new was elicited. This afternoon Denny and I went up again to the Indian Camp to take our lesson in Blackfoot. Denny also wished to get a pair of moccasins. We remained there for some time + came home by the river, firing at some objects in the bank as we came down. After dinner we had another trial of the signals, + then retired, only to be wakened up about 11 o’clock by the entrance of Crozier + his party who have just returned with a prisoner. Some account of what he did I will reserve until tomorrow.

Feb 9th

Well last night Col. Macleod, Capt. Jackson, Allen, Denny + myself went for Conrad + took him over to the squaw dance. It was a lodge. No light save for that of the fire in the center. The people all sat around in the lodge on the sleeping bunks, the men on one side the squaws + children on the other. The orchestra consisting of the drums, like tambourines without the bells, kept up an incessant tom tom, + the voices of the men + women kept time with the dancers + tom toms, in a melancholic, monotonous chant. Every now and then one chap would become very much excited, + start up in the circle dancing around the fire + dance in a most excited manner. Their dancing consists in a simple bending on the knees keeping the feet close together + keeping time with the music. The dancer may vary his dance by numerous absurd + grotesque attitudes or movements, + must keep continually singing. The[y] had tea to refresh themselves with during the interlude and also pipes. Now and again while the band was resting some buck would get up + make a speech telling of the wonderful + doughty deeds he had done. The squaws would dance up to the one they wished to dance with + pull him out from his seat. If they wished + were allowed, they could kiss you, after which you were excepted to give them a blanket. Denny, Jackson + the Col were each pulled and made to dance. They felt too much respect for me, so I was allowed to sit in dignified quietness. The lodge contained more than 36 persons. How they even managed to crowd in is a mystery. A space not 10 feet in diameter to hold so many + allow room for a fire + for dancing. We had the true unadulterated genuine Indian preference. I had a visit from Crowfoot the Chief of this faction of the Blackfoot, he brought a couple of his squaws along and a little child, a pretty little creature, whom he called Pouse [Blackfoot: “pussy cat/kitten”] after some kind of bird. I showed Crowfoot my family + my sketches. I had one of himself, he recognized it immediately, as also did his squaws. Was that not a triumph of art? The old man had a headache so I gave him a Seidlitz powder. You should have seen the look of bewildered amusement as the powder began to fizz. He repeated over + over again, *Skoon-a-taps-salui, which means ‘very strong medicine’. Afterwards we refreshed him with some Ginger tea, which elevated him so that he was almost tipsy. Then as it was lunch time, I gave him and his squaws some bread and meat, they eat their fill + departed shaking hands with every expression of delight.

This served to pass the greater part of the morning with pleasure and profit, for I succeeded in adding several words, properly pronounced, to my Indian vocabulary. By one o’clock it had begun to snow and continued to do so for the remained of the afternoon. Capt. Winder took a party of men and seized a wagon load of robes which appear to have been traded for whiskey. They were not able to bring them all the way to Camp on account of the heavy roads but left them under guard, about a mile from the Fort. Quite a little excitement was caused by the sound of four shots heard in the direction of this wagon, + a party of men was at once detailed to go out and see what was wrong. It proved to be a party of men who had been guarding the wagon + who had been relieved, fancying themselves lost, who fired to attract attention. Col. Macleod has brought out a code of signals with the flag, at which we have been diligently employing ourselves to learn, so that now, what with my anatomy, Blackfoot, Solar observations, French + signaling, I have spent my time pretty well occupied. I must now say Good night to you my Darling. I hope that you will sleep sound and have pleasant dreams. I expect to sleep as sound + as quietly as I ever did.

Feb. 8th

The Chenook [Chinook] continues and the prairies are a series of lakes running brooks + mud holes. You never saw such a change in your life, a few days ago, so white and cold and hard, now so black + brown + wet. This morning I got up and had a smoke before sick parade + had my breakfast afterwards. After breakfast I had one or two little things connected with the Mess which kept me busy until noon, I then sat down to read + read most of this afternoon. I got up and went out in the brush trying to find a shinny stick, but was unsuccessful. I then came home and read some more. After dinner I came in to write to you and that is what I am now doing. Allen + Welch were sent out this afternoon to look for some wagons that are expected in, they, (Allen + Welch) have just returned. I do not know if they saw the wagons or not. Winder was sent out this afternoon to get a runaway wife to return to her sorrowing Indian husband – I believe with success. I have set myself down to learn the Blackfoot language, and think that in a few months I shall probably be able to converse in broken Indian. Shall I write you a letter in Blackfoot? Some of the words are fearful jawbreakers, but time and use will render them easier on my jaw more accustomed, to them, I am going to leave you for the present and go down to the squaw dance.

Sunday. Feb. 7th

This morning a lot of Buffalo could be seen from my window, about half a mile from the Fort. Some Indians went after them and I witnessed a fair Buffalo hunt before breakfast. This afternoon I went over to the Indian Camp, taking Denny and some medicines along with me. We chatted with the squaws in the tent with some of the sick children, and really had a good deal of fun. I have not an idea of what they said, nor do I suppose they know what Denny + I were talking but the laugh always came in at the right time. We then found the Chief’s lodge + paid him a visit. His name is Crowfoot, he entertained us showed us all his finery, his war dress, bow + arrows, guns + knives, + then began to tell us stories of his achievements. We did not understand a word he said but his gestures were so energetic life like and real that we could not fail to take in all he meant. He showed us some feathers, eagle feathers + described how he saw it floating high in the air, how he hid himself in a hole in the ground, how the eagle came down to catch a fish, how he grasped it by the foot, killed it + took its feathers, then how he was shot on various occasions each time showing us his wound. The afternoon was passed in a very amusing way. A large squaw dance was going on this evening + great must have been the merriment to judge from the sound of the voices. I enjoyed the luxury of a good bath tonight and consequently feel much better. My tooth has not troubled me for two or three days. Good night + pleasant dreams.

Fort MacLeod February. 7th 1875

My darling Lizzie,

The Mail was not sent off as was expected. Mr A after all did not have the pleasure of riding to Stand Off, + our thanks to him were not required. A man volunteered to take any mail matter we had in to Benton + also bring back what was there, the whole to be done in 21 days and for the sum of $25.00. so we entrusted to him our mail, and he started out about noon on his trip with a toboggan drawn by a rough rugged roan horse. It was pretty cold when he started. He left here about noon last Wednesday, I had sent in my letters to you, and thought they had gone, so did not send any other to you. On Tuesday nothing in particular happened my sick list is getting to be very small, only 2 or 3, + my great trouble is to get up in time for the sick parade at 0 a.m. on Friday, the same dull routine. I had 3 or 4 games of chess with Denny + we came off even. I think I should be victor as one game was really a drawn game. Saturday presented the same every day appearance, still cold + the snow on the ground about 6 inches deep, at about 4.30 a strong wind from the West sprung up and in 9 minutes the thermometer had risen 32º! From +8º to +40º. The wind could be felt warm + balmy as the soft breezes that blow o’er Ceylon’s Isle. As soon as it began, a crowd of men appeared like magic with brooms on the roof of their quarters, brushing the snow off, to prevent it leaking through. Before this I had taken a walk up to the Blackfoots Camp about a mile from our Fort. The dogs, of which there are innumerable quantities around the Indian Camp, did not appear to entertain very kindly feelings towards us, (Allen was with me). However we were not bitten, we walked through the Camp looking at the lodges, some of them painted with Buffalo’s heads, + various Animals. Some with zigzag lines of party coloured pigments, some bright red, others their top only coloured black with rows round spots of red or white. The children ran after us calling out + evidently making fun, but we could not tell, they laughed and so did we. A few of the squaws were at work scraping robes, but not many on account of the cold. We were finally invited into one of the wigwams + found the old man proprietor of the lodge, his two stalwart looking sons + 4 or 5 squaws each with two or three little children hanging on to them. Room was made for us + a pipe offered, after a desultory conversation a sick child was shown to me, and its symptoms described, also a second child, fat, a most enourmous amount of fat, + dirty + a large lump on his head, just behind the ear. I looked at them both and promised to bring some medicine for them. We then came home. After dinner, by the by I am President of the Mess for this week beginning last Wednesday, I had some more chess with Denny + came off the Conqueror without doubt.