Fort MacLeod [ctd.]

Oct. 28. No news & the mail goes at once. Goodbye my own darling.

Your own Barrie

Fort MacLeod [ctd.]

Oct. 27th. Last night was bitterly cold altho’ a beautiful still moonlight night – at 9 o’clock the mercury was 3 degrees below zero & at 3 a.m. 10º below – at 7 o’clock this morning with the bright sun it had only risen to 32º. My eyes but it made a fellow’s fingers tough. For all the cold the building operations were proceeded with & will now go on only to be interrupted by a fierce storm later in the Fall. The great trouble out here now is to obtain hay for the horses. No one here expected to have much to do with such a mixture of horses – consequently cut us hay except for their own use – what hay could be cut after our arrival was cut but that has amounted to almost nothing. I expect that a portion of our stock will have to go to Sioux River in Montana for the ensuing winter. A patient has just interrupted me – a half breed woman and child – her baby is only a few weeks old possibly six and as it is her first she thinks every time he cries he is extremely ill. Our consultation was lengthy and most ludicrous. I would gravely state the various symptoms in the child that I saw & calmly ask for more – she would then chatter away in Indian poly-syllables. I would then politely request her to repeat what she said – Chatter Chatter Chatter. I would at that give a sage hum of assent and tell the woman with a most sagacious face that I thought she was making a great ass of herself that the child was perfectly well but as I could not satisfy her in any other was I would give her something. I made up four little powders of sugar and went through all the motions of mixing in a spoon and taking it & then shut my eyes pretending to sleep to show that each powder was to be given at bedtime – she chattered volubly her thanks or whatever it was and departed all smiles. Once before I gave her some alum – a large handful for curing some skins at the same time. I looked at the baby & she imagined this alum was for the baby & was going to chuck this huge lump into the little things throat. If she tried that game this time she can’t hurt the child anyhow.

I had another case [of] a woman whos arm had been shot at the elbow but her husband was along & explained matters altho’ her case was plain about him. Did I tell you of the capture of a gang of whiskey traders with a portion of their alcohol? Shortly after we arrived here a couple of Indians reported that an outfit had gone up Old Man’s River to trade whiskey – so a body of 10 men & an officer were mounted & went after them – they were found with all their available goods & chattels packed up & moving off – they were all brought back & their alcohol poured out their Buffalo Robes confiscated & themselves fined. One of their number is a negro named Bond – accused of murdering a number of Indians and who is also suspected of murdering a family in Chatham Ontario some time ago. The others have paid their fines or had them paid & have gone – no one could be found to pay the poor devil’s fine and he has had to remain in the guard tent ever since and probably will for some time. This spell of cold weather can scarcely have been agreeable to him.

What is the news with you? How is everyone in Toronto? Does Sallie still keep up her drawing? Tell me everything you know hear or see. Tell me of yourself your outgoings & your evenings at home. I am starving to hear from you. A wagon is going into Ft. Benton tomorrow or the day after & will take in this letter & I hope it will bring some out. I should not be at all surprised if the wagon should carry this negro Bond to Ft. Benton & take him on thence to Ft. Garry for his trial – or it may only be for letters or only to carry the men’s baggage who go to Sun River to herd the horses. Six months more and communication will be free with Benton – and everything will be bright and green but until then – we can expect nothing but the bleak winter with storm and slush – a south wind always brings the latter – more snow fell during the storm than we had supposed on the level prairie it was more than six inches deep & drifted in places so deep that it was with difficulty a horse could wade through it. However we have a stove now & can put up with the lesser inconveniences of crowding things into an extremely limited space. There will soon be a second opportunity of sending a mail of which I will avail myself at present I will say goodbye as I wish to write home and let them know how I am getting along. I will not close this until the last moment in order to have the last word with you and give you that latest reliable information from the Great NorthWest Territories.

Fort MacLeod, October 26th 1874

Dear Lizzie

Again I have to write you the sad tidings that your letter has not reached me. I do not know how much longer I will have to wait – but I hope not very long – no mail matter has come in from Benton. We expect letters now every day. Perhaps after all I will get them for a birthday present. We have had our first real tough of winter – after being surrounded on all sides by vast prairie fires which lightened the heavens with their lurid glare for miles & miles the wind changed to the north & snow began falling & it was cold. In our poor thin canvass tents the keen wind found many an entrance & with no winter clothes it was bitterly cold. Fortunately for our tent Conrad had a small stove which he brought over to us – we made an impromptu safety valve & put in a fire which kept us comfortable. The men got served with Buffalo Robes - & tho’ they were anything but comfortable still it made things bearable for them. Of course all work upon our fort had to be discontinued last night was 16º when noticed[;] I think it was lower & work is again resumed. It will be some weeks yet before we get into our winter huts - & we will have several storms like this last one – which after all only lasted two days and a half. The snow is still on the ground & may continue to be for 2 or 3 days which makes it cold and unpleasant underfoot. I feel sorry for the party that went East with Col. French. They will be in a miserably exposed portion of country where this storm will be felt with tenfold severity. One melancholy event connected with the storm – the death of one man who had been suffering from Typhoid Fever he went out in the cold without coat or hat & came in complaining of cramps & died in a few hours. He was buried this morning with military honors. His death threw a gloom over us all. It was the second one since the force was organized. Also the first white man who ever died a natural death in these parts all others had been killed or come to a sudden end. I do so long to hear from you that is my constant cry – of course I know you have written also that my anxiety only makes the time appear longer – but still I am anxious. Never mind a mail is coming when we won’t want letters[,] when words will do and then is we won’t have a good long long talk.

Yesterday evening was the first Sunday evening I have missed my evening walk. I went out for a short time but only round the tent – perhaps next Sunday will be milder and I will start earlier & make up for it. The Rocky Mountains loomed up this morning in dazzling splendor – reflecting the sun’s rays – they appear only a few miles off & showed all their cracks & fissures more plainly than I have yet seen them. We have had fish from the river just in front of us – large pike weighing from 6 to 12 lbs. a man can in half an hour more than supply all the men in camp for one day. Deer have been shot especially the day before the storm – they seemed to have known of its approach & fled for warmth into the bush – large flocks of geese are continually passing over us but no one has been fortunate enough to get one of the many birds. A goose is a noble bird and endowed with many good qualities & with a high order of goose chase is not to make a fool of a goose but of the one sent. A band of the Kootenay tribe of Indians have been setting fire to the prairies all around the country. On Friday night one of the largest fires was suddenly turned by the wind in our direction & stopped within a few miles of us. The camp & country was one dense cloud of smoke making us all weep & cough. For the past week or so I have not been so well as I had been – owing most probably to my eating too much and working too little. I have been going about a little more & so feel better.

Would you be kind enough to ask Jack to go to Willing & Williamson & renew my subscription to "The Practitioner” & give them my present address – Dr. McCollum is receiving the present numbers & has the back numbers of the past year. I began from the month of December if I remember rightly & the subscription was too. I am very much afraid will all my messages & demands Jack will wish we had no communication at all with the outer world.

St. Mary’s River, October 9th 1874

My dear Lizzie

I wrote to you from Fort Benton giving you some slight idea of the course we had travelled the hardships we had undergone the sufferings we had endured or rather that the horses endured we most fortunately have nothing to complain of at times no water & perhaps short of flour occasionally. The men were sometimes left with short rations [&] grumbled of course. Some people will grumble in any case. The Buffalo have supplied us with meat – our pork rations have run out for some time but the Buffalo have supplied us with beefsteaks & roasts in profusion. On our way to Fort Benton we saw some few Buffalo perhaps 6000 would cover the number, but since leaving there within the past few days – for miles and miles as far as we could see on a level plain the ground was black from the enormous bulls close to us the tiniest speck in the far distance[;] for nearly two days we have been passing through the herd. The advance guard of the force has to stop every now & then to allow a body of buffalo pass in front of them otherwise they would rush through the train and overturn it. Since leaving Benton I have had a case of surgery on hand – one of the men had a portion of his finger blown off by the explosion of a gun. I will have to amputate the finger – my first operation. I hope & have every reason to believe tht it will turn out well, fortunately for him it is only the first joint not much to call an operation, but it is just as well to begin in little things and so go on to greater. My things in Fort Edmonton are likely to remain there until next summer. They will be fully 300 miles from us here and the worn out condition of our horses the lateness of the season with all prevent our even making an attempt to communicate with Edmonton. We expect to build quarters & stables for the winter. I will have a Hospital and will I hope be able to make the sick comfortable. Poor fellows it is pretty hard on them to be on a lengthened trip like this & to have such poor comforts. We expect to have quite a settlement up here. A man from Benton is going to build a trading post just near us – there are several settlers there already. Half breeds will congregate around us and I should not be surprised but what the Hudson’s Bay Company also start a post. The married officers & men are talking of bringing up their wives & children. These with the Indians will make the nucleus of quite a city. The country they say is excellent, the climate admirable since we have approached this St. Mary’s River the grass & vegetation has been improving – in the river bottoms – quite luxuriant. The climate must be wonderful – here we are in the middle of October and the weather fine & clear at noon quite hot – of course the nights are cool. We are liable to occasional storms – but they say this fine weather will continue until late in November. The winter does not regularly set in until January. They travel on wheels nearly all winter. What do you think of such a country? How would you like to live in it for a while?

To day on our march we saw the evidences of Western hate[sic] Frontier crime and its speedy punishment – the body of an Indian lying along the road exposed to the weather the gaze of every passer by shot through the head & left, no thought of burial. We suppose he had been trying to get horses and was caught & that was the end of it. I have enjoyed the most thorough good health ever since I came out upon the prairie. I am feeling stronger than I ever did in my life. I do not know how much I weigh now but I expect not a great deal more than when I left Toronto. The large meat diet is not productive of much fat. I am sorry now that I did not get weighed in Benton. I might easily have done so. Did I tell you how well we are treated at Benton? Mr. Baker of the firm Baker & Conrad – insisted on our stopping at his place as long as we were in Benton and he fed us most royally – treating us in the most hospitable manner. I said to Major MacLeod that these could not be Yankees and as we afterwards found out Mr. Baker was from Missouri and the Conrads, old confederate soldiers from Virginia. So my prejudice did not carry me too far in that case. And my darling how are you? Oh if you only knew how I long for a letter from you I believe I would do any thing in the world no matter how bad only to get one line from you. I fancy all kinds of things have happened to you surrounded as you are by all this traummels of civilization how many accidents from which we are free could easily assail you. Amidst all my thoughts tho’ you must readily believe finds no place there – it never enters my head to believe or to think that you can be anything else than my own Lizzie. It would seem so strange if you did the bare possible of such a thing never crosses my mind – it would not be like you. As for me you know my feelings to well to think that I ever would grow cold to you and besides I have no temptation and even if I have I would still look up to you[,] my own darling. Has To day on our march we saw the evidences of Western hate Frontier crime and its speedy punishment – the body of an Indian lying along the road exposed to the weather the gaze of every passer by shot through the head & left, no thought of burial. We suppose he had been trying to get horses and was caught & that was the end of it. I have enjoyed the most thorough good health ever since I came out upon the prairie. I am feeling stronger than I ever did in my life. I do not know how much I weigh now but I expect not a great deal more than when I left Toronto. The large meat diet is not productive of much fat. I am sorry now that I did not get weighed in Benton. I might easily have done so. Did I tell you how well we are treated at Benton? Mr. Baker of the firm Baker & Conrad – insisted on our stopping at his place as long as we were in Benton and he fed us most royally – treating us in the most hospitable manner. I said to Major MacLeod that these could not be Yankees and as we afterwards found out Mr. Baker was from Missouri and the Conrads, old confederate soldiers from Virginia. So my prejudice did not carry me too far in that case. And my darling how are you? Oh if you only knew how I long for a letter from you I believe I would do any thing in the world no matter how bad only to get one line from you. I fancy all kinds of things have happened to you surrounded as you are by all this traummels of civilization how many accidents from which we are free could easily assail you. Amidst all my thoughts tho’ you must readily believe finds no place there – it never enters my head to believe or to think that you can be anything else than my own Lizzie. It would seem so strange if you did the bare possible of such a thing never crosses my mind – it would not be like you. As for me you know my feelings to well to think that I ever would grow cold to you and besides I have no temptation and even if I have I would still look up to you my own darling. Has Annie Taylor paid you her visit yet. Remember me most kindly to her when you write if she is not in Toronto now – give my kind regards to the Camerons and to all who care to inquire after me. I wrote to Ned Armom while at Benton. Do you ever see him. Paper is scarce here in camp and all my nice paper reposing in Edmonton. Give my love to the Stotesburgs and till then I will write when we get settled in winter quarters. I will have to close this with this sheet. By the time we get of Fort up paper will be more abundant. Take care of yourself my dear and when I hear from you let me hear of a bright happy time. Goodbye from your own

Barrie

Fort Benton September 24th 1874

Dearest Lizzie

It is now a long time since I wrote to you. I am glad to say that I still continue as well as ever and are getting stronger & fatter every day. I never was better in any life. I am brown as an Indian. My nose I firmly believe to be made after the fashion of an onion, the successive layers of skin that have peeled off would make a bushel of onions. We have pushed on from the Cypress Hills, sometimes with water sometimes not – grass was every where scarce – the weather is as fine as weather could be. On the last of September I purchased a horse, large, well formed, black, and have given him the high sounding title of “Satan” at one time he was the finest horse in the force – his only vice that he shied. Poor fellow what with no oats no grass no water – I am afraid he is a gone horse. He carried me very well to the Sweet Grass Hills – and is now quietly grazing. He is gentle knows his name & will follow me like a dog. Our choice of guides was most unfortunate not one of them knew the country through which we passed, our course was run by the compass & Palliser’s map – whichs not correct – we struck the South Saskatchewan a day sooner than we expected, the guide told us it was the Forks – the Bow & Belly Rivers – we knew better – four or five days after this we did strike the Bow River – in fact went beyond it & it was by accident that we discovered it – it is a lonely desert place one island with a few trees on it – high banks and not a soul near it – no grass – no road – we travelled 15 or 20 miles up the Belly River and sent a party up the Bow River for 80 miles – they found a party a Indians on the war path – put no fort[,] no road[,] no whiskey smugglers[.] we then retraced our steps and went south & struck the Boundary line at the Sweet Grass Hills or 3 Buttes. Here we were to pass the winter – two troops went on to Garry & two to remain and build huts for the winter & Col. French, Major McLeod & myself came down with a few carts to Fort Benton to get supplies. Our plans have slightly changed since we came here. We will now probably winter somewhere on the Belly River. Your letters if directed to me at Fort Benton will reach me – we will have a mail about once a month, perhaps not quite so often. I believe there is a settlement of Half Breeds near where we will be stationed & I can get them to make moccasins etc. for me. The Col. found a letter here for him directing him to make his headquarters at Fort Pelly – we will be much better off than they. One day while travelling towards the Buttes, I went off the line of march to hunt. I got quite lost – did not know where the trail was could see nothing but the bleak dreary wilderness – my companion a little dog had left me. I climbed a hill & looked out then another then another could see nothing the Buttes I could see - & had determined to make for them a matter of about ten miles. I came to this determination and though I would like some dinner so I shot at an antelope and missed him and hunting after him I saw what I thought was a heard of buffalo near a lake. I made for that and found the train stopping for dinner – they were just moving off. I got no dinner but was only too thankful to get in to mind that. I felt so lonely out on the prairie that I felt justified in opening your letter and my darling I can only thank most fervently the good God who put the thought of writing it in your head. You have no idea [(]can have none[)] of the immense comfort it was to me. You know I carry your little testament with me always. I seldom have time in the mornings to read it and at night we have no candles so on the march I get ahead of the troops sit down & read until they come up. I have looked at your dear handwriting again and again, but have never opened the envelope until then on the prairie lost and alone. Tell Mannie Cameron if he writes to direct to Fort Benton. I want you to ask him a question or two for me. No.1 Where is the supply of Sulphate of Alum obtained for the United States and Canada to what uses is it applied & is it expensive?

I must close before I have finished half of what I wish to say but the mail closes at 9 o’clock and it now wants but a few moments of that. We saw on our way down here swarms of Buffalo more than 50000 in one herd the plains for miles as far as we could see were black with them – we passed right thro’ their midst.

Capt. Miles wished me to say that he would like his wife to know he is well and on his road back to Fort Garry (as he thinks) – give my love to your Father Mother and all – Remember me to the Slotesburgs & give my kind regards to the Camerons.

Goodbye my darling Lizzie.
Yours forever
Barrie.

Cypress Mountains, August 27, 1874 [ctd.]

Aug. 29 Again I borrow the ink. Chapman the man who was supposed to guide me from Dufferin to Roche Percée is detailed to go back from here to Fort Garry. He will take a lot of mail matter with him this letter amongst it. I have no idea how long it will take him to Garry possibly not under a month or three weeks at least and then a week from there to Toronto, so that it will be at least 5 weeks & perhaps six before this meets your eye. Probably by that time I shall be far on my way to Edmonton. The large band of Indians that we heard were encamped here have all departed on their way to the Capell trading post to make a treaty which Gov. Thorns is getting up with the Crees etc. We were not altogether displeased at not having met them. Their stealing propensities would be a cause of grave inconvenience and anxiety. The noble savage as I have seen him is a most pitiable object – first on accounts of his dirty filthy habits & appearance then his moral status is so low. He will lie steal or murder for the slightest thing he covets & is the greatest and most unblushing begger under the sun. No matter how grievous you may have been towards him he will still ask for something else. To day in camp we had the lances out for the first time – a squad of men drilling with them. They are long bamboo poles with a steel head to point and also a steel but to rest in a socket when carried at rest. The drill was very pretty & the lances looked well with small pennions flashing from their peaks. They look very well but I fail to see their exact use. No Indian or bushwhacker will ever venture within lancing distance. They are of no use in this country. We have been faring most sumptuously since we have camped here. Just fancy out in the prairie we have a dinner of three distinct courses. First soup – made of pemmican, duck curry & onionc – then salmon – then ducks & plover with tomatoes – cold Venison – finishing up with our usual desert of Bread & molasses. Was that not a sumptuous repast? Last night and the night before we had a rainfall – the most continuous we have had since we left Dufferin. It rained pretty heavy all night. In the morning the dry dusty arid ground had become a mass of the most sticky adhesive mud I ever saw – huge masses would cling to our boots making them as heavy as lead. It seemed as tho’ we were about receiving our grant of 160 acres real estate and carrying it about with us. How ever by this afternoon the ground was again perfectly dry. I am beginning to feel lonely there is no officer in the force about whom I care a rush – and the most companionable are to return to Garry this winter. So my medical works will have a good deal to do in keeping one amused and busy. You know the old rhyme about The Devil always finds some work for idle hands to do. I must try not to let my hands be idle – nor my brain either – good bye – my love to your Father & Mother & Sallie & all.

Your own Barrie

Cypress Mountains, August 27, 1874 [ctd.]

Aug. 28th I had to stop owing to borrowed ink. To go on with what I was saying – we will have two mails during the winter perhaps three we were also talking about having reading matter sent up to us a list of books that each one wishes will be made out and any duplicates struck out. So our winter evenings will not be altogether unprofitably spent. I have found an ardent admirer of chess – who was bewailing the want of a set of chess-men. I gladdened his heart by telling him that I had brought mine along with me – we will have some grand old games – Jack can busy himself making problems for our solution. Every one speaks well of Edmonton as being a nice place – with quite a settlement in the vicinity of the Fort who knows perhaps I may make a good thing out of a private practice enough to keep me in kid gloves up there. What have you been doing with yourself? Has Miss Taylor been to pay you a visit yet? You must remember me kindly to her – when you write or see her. Dearest girl I have been reading in your dear old book you must have carried it with you & used it for a long time. It seems like a beautiful souvenir of yourself reading over the pages which you have so often perused & it seems like reading it with you. I can almost hear your dear voice reading with me. I have not felt so very blue or so very lonely as to justify me in opening your note but often often have I looked at your old crabbed hand & wondered what words of comfort & consolation I would find there it acts like a charm even tho’ I read nothing but my own name – but that has been written by your own dear hand. I carry the little book in my pocket always about with me – and often take it out sometimes only to look at my name on the envelope and yours just opposite on the fly leaf. Remember you are to tell me everything you do no matter how trivial it is – you keep a journal and are able to recall any little incidents I cannot do this. I can only recollect the most important ones. My diary was kept in a large book which I had to send on to Edmonton from Roche Percée. When I get to the end I will be in better form then to let you know almost exactly what I do all thro’ every day. I feel it will not weary you and the trouble that it will give me will be amply repaid by the thought that it is for you that I am doing it. You must give only warmest love to Mannie Cameron. Tell him that I intend to use him as my encyclopedia. I have not a few subjects upon which I wish light to be thrown and will apply to him before long. When does he go to Philadelphia? I am sorry that I did not get a large stock of Postage stamps to bring along with me but as I have not if people wish to hear from me they will have to pay the postage. We are now in the hostile Indian country and greater care & watchfulness will be required now consequently the guard has been doubled around the camp in place of four sentries we now have nine the corral formed by the wagons is in the form of a number of squares the horses are picketed there every night and a guard mounted over them – outside of the wagons are the tents of the men & outside of these of course the line of sentries. Now no stragglers are permitted either in front of the advance guard or at a great distance on the flanks & the rear guard hustles any who lag behind. The wagons themselves now keep in a close train each team at about 4 yards distance behind the preceding the ox carts keep together. You should see these carts – huge rough unwieldy looking things that appear ready to fall to pieces at the slightest concussion – all bound together by bits of shagannappi – they make the most aweful squeaking & squealing as they are drawn along by their single horse or ox – one man manages three four or five carts – the ones he looks after the oxen being tied behind each forward cart. These ox carts always go first on the march then by troops according as each one is ready first. Our assistant commissioner the one who will be in charge at Edmonton has gone off to White muc[mud?] river to get oats & we are waiting here for his return after that we will move on. Bow River according to the matest calculations is 160 miles from here we thought it nearer. They say 100 that all the grass between here and there has been devoured by grasshoppers and Buffalo – a bad look out for the horses that – yesterday evening I took a sketch of a sunset. I do not know if it is a success or not this afternoon I put in a foreground and altogether it does not look so bad. It does not look much like the sunset for which it was intended but no on will ever see that to compare it. I must give up on my ink again – so goodbye