Showing posts with label Fort Edmonton. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Fort Edmonton. Show all posts

Saturday, March 6, 2010

Mar 6th

There is one piece of good news to tell you and that is that a Mail is to leave here for Benton next Monday. The bearer of this mail is none other that the illustrious John Glen[?] mentioned in ‘From Ocean to Ocean’ as the “typical man”. He is or will not be alone this time, he has brought his wife with him, a pretty little Cree Halfbreed from Fort Edmonton. He is not prospecting now for gold digging, but is back[?] from accumulating the filthy [?] by selling vegetables, butter etc to any who will buy. So you will I hope, before very long get another letter from me. We cannot tell if the letters sent by Baker ever reached Benton, perhaps he was killed on the prairies and the letters [?] scattered to the wind storms. Not a soul has been out here from Benton since our last Mail arrived. It has been blowing hard all day and the wind now is howling outside [?] beating against the house whistling through the many cracks + crevices of our humble homes + [?] mimic [?] of dust upon the floor. Everything in the room after being [?] [?]for two or three minutes becomes grey with dust. The lamps flicker + tremble with a [?] [?] lighten and the mud[?] drops at frequent intervals with a [?] [?] [?] upon the floor. Happy are we if it misses our heads. While I was sitting here quietly writing 8 or 10 men have taken it into their heads to desert. A party is just starting out in pursuit. But my opinion is that they might just as well stay at home. It is very problematical if they catch them, still more problematical if then they can force them back and extremely doubtful what we can do with them when they are brought back. They have been lured away by the tales of the traders about us, of golden visions of high [?] in [?] of the gold diggings. + a general feeling of dissatisfaction with their position[?] pay and work here. I near expect to see them here again. However I must now say Good night it is very late.

Friday, December 18, 2009

Fort MacLeod, Dec. 18th 1874

Now for one of those grand Diary Letters! Do you not feel very much frightened at being the repository of secrets which weigh down to the ground the mighty medicine man of the Palefaces? If you do not – then all I can say is that you do not show a proper respect for the aforesaid man of Power – (& Pills). I feel very happy my darling – happier and more contented than I have for many a long long weary day. Your dear letters have infused new life into me. the fond assurance that you are well in spite of little slips of a sore lip of a cold & a feeling of weakness & tiredness on the slightest exertion fills me with Joy. How have I not imagined you – in all possible ills that human flesh is heir to – having in the wild delirium of fever or knowing in dire pain – and calling on me to help you and I far away & ignorant of it all and even if I knew of it utterly powerless to aid you and unable to come to you. Many a night I have lain awake torturing myself with these painful reflections. But now they give place to a happier train of thought I know my little girl is taking care of herself if not for my sake then for her own and is enjoying herself too. I am so thankful dear, that you have so many kind friends who are able to comfort my darling & distract her thoughts from one gloomy subject like myself – knowing as I do that the distraction is only from the gloomy side of the picture & that pleasant scenes & pleasant friends tried to engender pleasant thoughts, even in one of a melancholy somber turn of mind – how much more then in my own little girl. Last evening I read over all your letters – the first time I only glanced over them looking for the latest news of yourself – last night however I only labeled the envelopes with dates & read them in chronological order. I forgot to tell you that yesterday noon I received another batch of letters – from you written in November from St. Kitts – and one from Ted Covernton. I can only give you nothing for your Tinytype. I am so wholly yours I have nothing left to give you – but my and that will never fail, it is like the old fairy tale of the jug of milk the more they used the more there was to use or little the Widow’s cruse of oil – never failing. Your tobacco pouch needs no apologies & what care I for severe judges on the prairie or elsewhere? did they make the pouch? Could money purchase [ ] one? No--- what then do you mean by making excuses for it, it needs none. At the same time I have no strong objections to supervise the manufacture of the next. I had to stop here for dinner was just being put on the ‘table’ (which is a large packing case raised from the ground on a 10 gallon alcohol case) and consequently I had to decamp after dinner I went down to see my sick man being offered a seat in the sumptuous conveyance I gladly accepted the offer & drove down on a hay rack – four in hand team trotting across the frozen country – no springs. I digested my dinner well. I found my patient ever so much better & a good sign was that he was asking for something to eat. He will I think recover from this attack but I cannot say so much of the next. I had borrowed a rifle from Denny one of the officers - & walked towards camp through the bush on the opposite side of the river – thinking to see some prairie chicken or hares – but I was not fortunate and came in feeling nicely tired & hungry as a wolf. It was now too dark to do anything inside the room so I went over to the hospital and found some putty & began puttying the panes of glass in my window. I continued to do this until it was too dark even for that & then the bugle sounded – for the guard to fall in – and I watched the adjutant inspect it – and the officer of the day march it off & relieve the old guard. It was now tea time – and I fell to with a will. Then taking off my boots & putting on my slippers – do you recollect making them for me? the black ones with the bunch of flowers & my smoking cap – do you remember that? The philosopher. Did you object so much to being caught in a philopoena as you do to losing a bit? Then filling my pipe I lit it of course & began reading the ‘mails’ Jack sent me. then tossing these aside I talk to my own little dear & first of all let me crave your pardon for not having before given you a real diary letter. My reason was the absurd scarcity of paper. You could not get any there was none in the country – but now I have received my stationery (a or e?) I will be very culpable indeed if I do not fulfil my promise. I want to speak about some little things in your letters. I am very much obliged to Miss Louisa Chisholm for making you take so much outdoor exercise – it is good for you. If she would only make you go to bed earlier it would be better still. The idea of trotting about all day and then sitting up to such unconscionable hours – half past one! Why did you not sit up all night? Don’t do it anymore Liz – even to write to me. Poor Frank – I had heard nothing about his illness. His brains were afflicted than his spine. Then he had some reason in what he said about his head going to sleep. Poor fellow. How they used to teaze him about that speech at the Cameron’s. I am so glad he is getting better. Tell him that I wrote to him - & if I had known of his weak state Especially the brain – I would have written a very simple letter – with no word of more than one syllable. I am really very sorry for him – but I feel so happy in hearing from you & also in the knowledge that he is now out of danger that I may be excused from Joking at him.

I am very glad old woman that you have come to like Ned Armour – he is a really good kind hearted Christian thoroughly earnest & as warm hearted as he is undemonstrative. Ned and I were always good friends – especially when by his laziness & being led away by Ned Burke he lost the scholarship at Trinity – since then each year has only cemented our friendship more closely. I am glad now that I am not at Edmonton. Very glad, indeed. Then the only chance of a mail would have been the H.B.Co.’s Wireless Packet & they would not have been able to bring all the mail matter for us. My old horse is picking rapidly & getting quite strong – when I left him to go to Benton I scarce expected to see him again – but since he has been here he has had no work to do but an occasional ride down to Kanonsis where my sick men were – Now old ‘Satan’ has gone to Sun River to pass the Winter. I wonder if he will forget me when he is away.

I too am glad my precious darling that you wrote that letter. You have no idea of the sense of overwhelming comfort it gave to me on the wild prairie. It seemed to make one feel at once that I was not lost that I was in my Father’s keeping – and that the spirit of your prayers hovered over me and that I was not even alone. And since then I have as before talked to your dear handwriting on the envelope – but now I could open it and hear you answer me. You would often have laughed to hear me asking the senseless bit of paper with some ink scratches on it the gravest questions and keeping up a conversation with it. Many a time too Old ‘Satan’ has no doubt cogitated on my sanity. For while we were on the march, he walking along beside me – I would talk to him about you by the hour & when I saw his bright eye of which alas! grew very dim before we got to our journey’s end I glance at me – I would throw my arms around his neck lay my head against his and tell him I wished it was you. The poor old fellow would stop & look at me so sorrowfully – as much as to say – “Now don’t take on so – all will come right in time”. Then perhaps we would see a little piece of the prairie which looked not quite so parched as the rest & we would make towards it and he would try to get a mouthful to appears that dreadful “Tiger” inside of him. Did you ever read “Blades of Grass” by Farjean? You will then know what I mean by the Tiger.

– Good night –

Monday, November 2, 2009

Fort MacLeod [ctd]

Nov. 2. Yesterday evening I took a short walk – but it was very cold – the thermometer being below freezing. We have been told time and again that this snow would only last for a day or two but now it has been on the ground for more than a week & the weather is getting colder and at the same time we hear stories of the extreme cold of winter which beat all that we have hitherto heard. At one time it was a most beautiful climate quite fairy like – now it beats that of Manitoba for extreme cold. It is strange what stories are told. My sick report for a day or two was very large no less than 26 being upon it – more than one sixth the whole strength of the force it has however dwindled down to a much smaller number only 12 this morning and 4 of them able to return to their duty. I wonder that more of the men are not sick – what with tramping around in the snow and slush in moccasins full of holes or boots without soles and sleeping in the cold tents. They must be pretty good men not to come in. When I come back to you I will be a hardy veteran and what is worse and awkward boor. I am sure I will have forgotten how to behave myself. I had at Fort Benton a slight inkling of how much I had forgotten and now with perhaps three years of loneliness and without womans’ refining influences can you imagine a more pitiable object than myself stuck down in a ladies drawing room? Don’t let us look so far forwards – unless you promise to take me under your protecting wing and before my appearance again in society teach me all the little kindly mannerisms of good behavior so I will not bring disgrace upon you by suddenly being turned loose. Very nearly four months of the thirty-six have gone by – that is about one ninth of the whole time – which leaves only eight ninths to be gone through. Is that not a great deal shorter than three years? I do not now even expect to get a leave of absence during the summer. If Kittson and the remained of the force come up next summer – I will probably be left at the fort with any sick there may be – or I may be moved up to Fort Edmonton or to the Bow River at old Bow Fort or anywhere that a new post may be established. So it will be good bye to all my big tour dreams. I must say good bye for the present. I don’t know when this will go – and will add a few lines before it does.

Your own

Barrie

Friday, October 9, 2009

St. Mary’s River, October 9th 1874

My dear Lizzie

I wrote to you from Fort Benton giving you some slight idea of the course we had travelled the hardships we had undergone the sufferings we had endured or rather that the horses endured we most fortunately have nothing to complain of at times no water & perhaps short of flour occasionally. The men were sometimes left with short rations [&] grumbled of course. Some people will grumble in any case. The Buffalo have supplied us with meat – our pork rations have run out for some time but the Buffalo have supplied us with beefsteaks & roasts in profusion. On our way to Fort Benton we saw some few Buffalo perhaps 6000 would cover the number, but since leaving there within the past few days – for miles and miles as far as we could see on a level plain the ground was black from the enormous bulls close to us the tiniest speck in the far distance[;] for nearly two days we have been passing through the herd. The advance guard of the force has to stop every now & then to allow a body of buffalo pass in front of them otherwise they would rush through the train and overturn it. Since leaving Benton I have had a case of surgery on hand – one of the men had a portion of his finger blown off by the explosion of a gun. I will have to amputate the finger – my first operation. I hope & have every reason to believe tht it will turn out well, fortunately for him it is only the first joint not much to call an operation, but it is just as well to begin in little things and so go on to greater. My things in Fort Edmonton are likely to remain there until next summer. They will be fully 300 miles from us here and the worn out condition of our horses the lateness of the season with all prevent our even making an attempt to communicate with Edmonton. We expect to build quarters & stables for the winter. I will have a Hospital and will I hope be able to make the sick comfortable. Poor fellows it is pretty hard on them to be on a lengthened trip like this & to have such poor comforts. We expect to have quite a settlement up here. A man from Benton is going to build a trading post just near us – there are several settlers there already. Half breeds will congregate around us and I should not be surprised but what the Hudson’s Bay Company also start a post. The married officers & men are talking of bringing up their wives & children. These with the Indians will make the nucleus of quite a city. The country they say is excellent, the climate admirable since we have approached this St. Mary’s River the grass & vegetation has been improving – in the river bottoms – quite luxuriant. The climate must be wonderful – here we are in the middle of October and the weather fine & clear at noon quite hot – of course the nights are cool. We are liable to occasional storms – but they say this fine weather will continue until late in November. The winter does not regularly set in until January. They travel on wheels nearly all winter. What do you think of such a country? How would you like to live in it for a while?

To day on our march we saw the evidences of Western hate[sic] Frontier crime and its speedy punishment – the body of an Indian lying along the road exposed to the weather the gaze of every passer by shot through the head & left, no thought of burial. We suppose he had been trying to get horses and was caught & that was the end of it. I have enjoyed the most thorough good health ever since I came out upon the prairie. I am feeling stronger than I ever did in my life. I do not know how much I weigh now but I expect not a great deal more than when I left Toronto. The large meat diet is not productive of much fat. I am sorry now that I did not get weighed in Benton. I might easily have done so. Did I tell you how well we are treated at Benton? Mr. Baker of the firm Baker & Conrad – insisted on our stopping at his place as long as we were in Benton and he fed us most royally – treating us in the most hospitable manner. I said to Major MacLeod that these could not be Yankees and as we afterwards found out Mr. Baker was from Missouri and the Conrads, old confederate soldiers from Virginia. So my prejudice did not carry me too far in that case. And my darling how are you? Oh if you only knew how I long for a letter from you I believe I would do any thing in the world no matter how bad only to get one line from you. I fancy all kinds of things have happened to you surrounded as you are by all this traummels of civilization how many accidents from which we are free could easily assail you. Amidst all my thoughts tho’ you must readily believe finds no place there – it never enters my head to believe or to think that you can be anything else than my own Lizzie. It would seem so strange if you did the bare possible of such a thing never crosses my mind – it would not be like you. As for me you know my feelings to well to think that I ever would grow cold to you and besides I have no temptation and even if I have I would still look up to you[,] my own darling. Has To day on our march we saw the evidences of Western hate Frontier crime and its speedy punishment – the body of an Indian lying along the road exposed to the weather the gaze of every passer by shot through the head & left, no thought of burial. We suppose he had been trying to get horses and was caught & that was the end of it. I have enjoyed the most thorough good health ever since I came out upon the prairie. I am feeling stronger than I ever did in my life. I do not know how much I weigh now but I expect not a great deal more than when I left Toronto. The large meat diet is not productive of much fat. I am sorry now that I did not get weighed in Benton. I might easily have done so. Did I tell you how well we are treated at Benton? Mr. Baker of the firm Baker & Conrad – insisted on our stopping at his place as long as we were in Benton and he fed us most royally – treating us in the most hospitable manner. I said to Major MacLeod that these could not be Yankees and as we afterwards found out Mr. Baker was from Missouri and the Conrads, old confederate soldiers from Virginia. So my prejudice did not carry me too far in that case. And my darling how are you? Oh if you only knew how I long for a letter from you I believe I would do any thing in the world no matter how bad only to get one line from you. I fancy all kinds of things have happened to you surrounded as you are by all this traummels of civilization how many accidents from which we are free could easily assail you. Amidst all my thoughts tho’ you must readily believe finds no place there – it never enters my head to believe or to think that you can be anything else than my own Lizzie. It would seem so strange if you did the bare possible of such a thing never crosses my mind – it would not be like you. As for me you know my feelings to well to think that I ever would grow cold to you and besides I have no temptation and even if I have I would still look up to you my own darling. Has Annie Taylor paid you her visit yet. Remember me most kindly to her when you write if she is not in Toronto now – give my kind regards to the Camerons and to all who care to inquire after me. I wrote to Ned Armom while at Benton. Do you ever see him. Paper is scarce here in camp and all my nice paper reposing in Edmonton. Give my love to the Stotesburgs and till then I will write when we get settled in winter quarters. I will have to close this with this sheet. By the time we get of Fort up paper will be more abundant. Take care of yourself my dear and when I hear from you let me hear of a bright happy time. Goodbye from your own

Barrie

Saturday, August 29, 2009

Cypress Mountains, August 27, 1874 [ctd.]

Aug. 29 Again I borrow the ink. Chapman the man who was supposed to guide me from Dufferin to Roche Percée is detailed to go back from here to Fort Garry. He will take a lot of mail matter with him this letter amongst it. I have no idea how long it will take him to Garry possibly not under a month or three weeks at least and then a week from there to Toronto, so that it will be at least 5 weeks & perhaps six before this meets your eye. Probably by that time I shall be far on my way to Edmonton. The large band of Indians that we heard were encamped here have all departed on their way to the Capell trading post to make a treaty which Gov. Thorns is getting up with the Crees etc. We were not altogether displeased at not having met them. Their stealing propensities would be a cause of grave inconvenience and anxiety. The noble savage as I have seen him is a most pitiable object – first on accounts of his dirty filthy habits & appearance then his moral status is so low. He will lie steal or murder for the slightest thing he covets & is the greatest and most unblushing begger under the sun. No matter how grievous you may have been towards him he will still ask for something else. To day in camp we had the lances out for the first time – a squad of men drilling with them. They are long bamboo poles with a steel head to point and also a steel but to rest in a socket when carried at rest. The drill was very pretty & the lances looked well with small pennions flashing from their peaks. They look very well but I fail to see their exact use. No Indian or bushwhacker will ever venture within lancing distance. They are of no use in this country. We have been faring most sumptuously since we have camped here. Just fancy out in the prairie we have a dinner of three distinct courses. First soup – made of pemmican, duck curry & onionc – then salmon – then ducks & plover with tomatoes – cold Venison – finishing up with our usual desert of Bread & molasses. Was that not a sumptuous repast? Last night and the night before we had a rainfall – the most continuous we have had since we left Dufferin. It rained pretty heavy all night. In the morning the dry dusty arid ground had become a mass of the most sticky adhesive mud I ever saw – huge masses would cling to our boots making them as heavy as lead. It seemed as tho’ we were about receiving our grant of 160 acres real estate and carrying it about with us. How ever by this afternoon the ground was again perfectly dry. I am beginning to feel lonely there is no officer in the force about whom I care a rush – and the most companionable are to return to Garry this winter. So my medical works will have a good deal to do in keeping one amused and busy. You know the old rhyme about The Devil always finds some work for idle hands to do. I must try not to let my hands be idle – nor my brain either – good bye – my love to your Father & Mother & Sallie & all.

Your own Barrie

Sunday, August 16, 2009

Camp Old Woman’s Creek, August 15th 1874 [ctd.]

As you see I have succeeded. Dr. Kittson was kind enough to lend me some. He has one of those magic inkstands pour in some water at one end & it comes out at the other a beautiful black ink. They are very convenient. Our guide who came in last evening brought a rumor from Wood Mountain that the Boundary Commission store at White Creek has been robbed by a band of Sioux Indians. Also that Capt. Cameron on his way to Wood Mountain had found five or six bodies laying exposed along the roadside scalped one was the body of a white man & he was tied to a tree and his body fearfully gashed. I do not know whether to believe him or not. Chapman says not. These Half Breeds & Indians love to bring news and cause a sensation. It makes no difference to them & should they be proved liars the next moment. I hope it is not true. In a day or two we will get authentic news from Wood Mountain. To day at dinner we had quite a feast, a splendid soup, made of pemmican, and with barley, corn and Beans, onions, etc., then a second course of boiled fresh Beef, our facilities for roasting are not the best – as a dessert we had some cornstarch & syrup. We always finish every meal with bread and syrup, when there is bread. We had a great row about the bread some days ago. It was cut into slices and put upon the table in plates and each one helped himself, well the natural consequence was that some got more than others, a pound of bread a day divided into three meals is not a great deal to men with prairie appetites. The early birds in this got all the worms, and those who were detained for any reason usually got none. A great outcry was raised, and then at breakfast each mans pound of flour made up into bread was placed at his place at the table. We divided these into 3 parts each one according to his taste, put our mark upon the remainder which was for our dinner & supper. This plan we found to work very well. Before that the meals were anything but pleasant and anything but satisfactory, particularly at times, ravenously hungry I would get up from the table with an appetite as unappeased as when I sat down. This latter arrangement appears to do away with anything of the sort. The men complain a good eal of the short allowances they have – but nevertheless they seem to thrive upon it. The great hardship with them is when on the march, some of the teams play out and are unable to catch up to the camp for some hours in camp has to do with out anything to eat until it comes up.

The wind is blowing today in fitful gusts now & then a sputter of rain and then clears off. Towards the north a large prairie fire is still burning, huge volumes of smoke brood along the ground, it has been burning for five or six days. There has not been rain sufficient to extinguish it. The wind only fans the flame and gives it new force & vigour. Our sick list is gradually diminishing. We are to leave a camp with all unnecessary stores here under the charge of a constable & a few sub constables forming a depot for the provisions of the troops on their backward march. I will of course not be here again. From Bow River Troops B & C go on through the Blackfoot country to Fort Edmonton. A Troop has already gone there. Troops D E & F will return. We expect to reach Bow River by the end of this month, or the beginning of next. No one knows how long we will have to stay there but all hope to get away soon. Prairie life is pleasant enough and I cannot complain of being necessitated to endure many very great hardships but I too will be glad when I am lodged with shingles above & boards below with a good blazing fire. I shall not be at all sorry, more especially when I think I may find letters there from you. I look forward with trembling too – for perhaps I may be disappointed. I hope not, and I will not. Round camp here it is a lazy life. Sick parade at 9 a.m. then visit the sick who are not able to leave their quarters & then the rest of the day is to myself, interrupted however by stray calls from those who do not feel well during the day. Now & then a slight hurt or accident comes under our notice and demands some slight attention but never yet have we had any serious accident. To day[sic] while at church we almost had one. One of the cooks was trying to clean one of the shot guns and in the most foolish manner stuck the breech in the fire & left it, another cook who was working round the same fire managed to be in front of it as it exploded the discharge blew the breeches of the man to atoms, and inflicted a bad bruise upon his leg. It fortunately happened that there was no charge in the gun only a piece of rag which was saturated with gun powder, had it been loaded the man’s leg would have been shattered beyond redemption. I left church to see him, and placed the careless fellow who had stuck the gun in the fire under arrest. He will tomorrow have to answer for his extreme carelessness. There is a carelessness manifested in every thing connected with the force even the placing & posting of the guard around the camp & of the picquet around the horses. A band of Indians could as easily rule the camp and scalp us all before we knew it. More stringency in this respect will now be enforced as we are about entering a territory swarming with Indians who will never refuse a scalp when offered to them. But good bye. My letter must close the man is now going. Good Bye. My love to all at home & my dearest dearest love keep with you.

Barrie

Saturday, August 15, 2009

Camp Old Woman’s Creek, August 15th 1874

My darling Lizzie

I wrote to Jack yesterday in a great hurry having suddenly heard of an opportunity of sending a letter by Col. MacLeod via Wood Mountain where some person is on the 17th going to leave for Fort Garry. Today I have heard of another chance a large portion of Half Breed with horses have just met us on their way to Fort Garry. The head man is a friend and old schoolfellow of Dr. Kittson. I told you that opportunities would occur somewhat like this did I no?. They are all one sided however and only go one way. I wish I could hear from you, were it ever so short. I am starved for want of hearing from you. But never mind [?] [?] must come to all things and when I do get news from you they will be all the dearer & all the more greedily devoured. Just fancy the hubbub confusion, excitement, anxiety & crowded rush for letters when mail does come. And then the happy moments afterwards reading, rereading & again reading until every word is engraved clearly & distinctly on our memories. Ah but it’s something to look forward to. Almost (not quite) a full recompense for the long period of anxious expectation - & vexing uncertainty. I am glad that I am able to state with a clear conscience, that as yet I have killed no one – either medicinally or otherwise. As for my own health it is perfect without a flaw. I am strong as the ox (fabled) & am getting of an exquisite mahogany colour, which colour when I get warm takes on the beautiful polish the aforesaid wood is so famous for. Indeed at times I have a spinning countenance. I am happy comparatively speaking as happy as I can be without my tormentor [?] I have not audibly been called any hard names such as goose [?] head, donkey & other ladylike & civilized appellations. To tell truth I often wish I could hear such terms upon which I had learned to look as terms of welcome kindness[,] pity or love. I would willingly forego many pleasures to hear them again. I wrote to you from our camping place about 5 miles from this & sent it to Wood Mountain by an Indian guide. Before that my letter was by Capt. Walters who with Col. McLeod had left us to go to Wood Mountain for Pemmican – he delivered the letter in safe hands to go to Garry. I have no stamps. That is the thing I could not remember in Jack’s letter yesterday. Ask him to send me as many stamps as he chooses. After numerous trials & many disappointments I have at last succeeded in getting a tunic without any gold trim however and some grey cloth for riding breeches but I have to get these made up without trimming of any sort, buttons or anything else. I expect I will have to tie them together with Sagannappi [sic], it’s trimmings will in that case far outlast the cloth. You remember I told you I sent everything I did not consider absolutely necessary to Fort Edmonton from Roche Percée. The country through which we have been laterally passing bears the same leading characteristics as that before. Old Woman’s lake is quite a body of water – salt – tho’ scarcely perceptible in the taste, yet in its effects upon the men as was easily seen it was not like ordinary water. We camped just on the Lake shores and indulged freely in the luxury of a daily bath, the watering of the horses was a scene of life vivacity & confusion seldom witnessed along the quiet shores of the lake, one might easily made out for a mile and then be not over his depth, the bottom was a fine hard firm sand. Plenty of gulls curlews & ducks flew about and at a distance some pelicans were seen fishing. Col. French shot a pelican which I believe will be stuffed it measures more than eight feet from tip to tip of its wings which were tipped with black the beak long & the pendulous baglike lower lip of a bright yellow as also are the legs – the rest of the plumage is a glistening white. The artist has made a sketch of the watering of the horses, which is very like. The artist has lately been very busy, making sketches of the Indians and their encampment. As a rule they are very good. These will, I believe not be published until sometime in the winter when he returns to Montreal. I have not been making any sketches at all lately. I have not felt at all in the humor.

What have you been doing with yourself? Have you been taking some exercise? You must write and tell me all about yourself – what you do & is done to you – who visits you & what is the latest bit of news about your neighbors & friends & everybody and everything. Do you mind? See that you do – the smallest atom of news will be acceptable to me. If you should hear anything from home be sure and let me know of it. I wrote home before I left telling them to send their letters to the Hospital as before & they would be forwarded to me. You might ask Jack to call on Dr. McCollum and ask him to direct all letters for me to Fort Garry. If Jack sees the Dr, tell him to remember me most kindly both to him and to Mrs. McCollum. If Green is there to Gunn also to McAlpine in fact that I begged to be remembered to them all. He might tell Poulter that I saw some of the Boundary Commission. As I write there are two Indians on horseback in front of my tent. They have had an accession to their numbers today they appear to be finer looking fellows than the others. I stopped there and appeared at a general parade, to have some orders read out. Then the next excitement was three figures on horse back in the distance, they were approaching the camp at a rapid pace. Who were they? One turned out to be our guide an Indian the one whom I gave the letter from Old Woman’s Lake & with him came a stranger of whom the guide knew nothing he wished to join the force or at least to be hired as a guide, he speaks English well and Siox but no French – no one knows if he has any acquaintance with the Blackfoot language[;] an investigation is now going on of who & what he is & what he knows. I hope they will have nothing to do with him as he has a most cut throat appearance.

Last evening I enjoyed most thoroughly. I went down to speak to Capt. Miles in his tent and found quite a congregation there – singing – one or two really excellent voices – the choruses showed that a good quartette could easily be obtained in the camp, there was one fellow called Beattie who has a good Bass. They continued to sing – songs sentimental, songs comic – songs semi comic & the internals interspersed with remarks sarcastic – personal and general. They are at it again[,] Beautiful Star is now going in full fling – the tenor is good. Yesterday evening some of the Indians came over and invited us with a dance – it was done on a small scale – a Brave a fine broad shouldered fellow was the leader – he had on a blanket and a feather in his hair – he was accompanied by six or seven squaws who with the [?] vanity of their sex had various ornaments round their necks[,] in their ears – bracelets rings & some attempts at embroidery in their dress & moccasins. They formed themselves in a circle the leader with a mammoth child’s rattle began beating time – then all hooted – then they all began to chant in an uncouth rough monotonous unmusical and in unison a jargon – the leader keeping time & the circle moved round keeping both feet together and on the ground – they appeared to get more excited or at all events they moved faster & faster & they ceased and laughed. Our interpreter said it was a song about their memories the Blackfeet being snared & scalped – it might have been that or anything else. Their dance was interrupted by the discordant tones of a concertina playing a jig tune – some of the men then began to dance a jig & then a Scotch reel & finally ended in a waltz. The Indians apparently did not like this and went away looking decidedly huffed. The thunderstorm of which I made mention to Jack passed off with only one or two good gusts of wind which raised the dust in enormous clouds during the night – however a second storm was brewing and came up with a good deal of thunder and lightning & some wind but no rain more than a few drops. I had undressed and gone to bed but as the wind began to rise, I gradually put on one thing after another until I was entirely dressed boots & all. I expected the tent to come down every moment the wind was blowing straight against my side of the tent when suddenly I was awakened by a deafening bang & something struck me forcibly in the head. I could hear a confused stamping & struggling outside. I looked through the tent which now has a big hole in the side and saw an enormous horse struggling wildly and almost beyond the controls of the men around him. However they got him away and I afterwards found out it was the stallion which had broken loose and had bolted & was making straight for my tent on the full gallop when they just stopped him in time. Had he come on well you would not have heard from me again. That is the great danger in all these thunderstorms mainly a stampede of the horses. They become so terribly frightened. All day today I have been without a house my tent being in the hands of the tent maker mending the rent made last night as also sundry other rents made during the night when it was blown down of which I wrote you before. However it is now all fixed up and better than ever. The tobacco we draw from the stores is the most miserable beastly stuff, full of stems hairs of hemp and were small nails. You might ask Jack to call at Jaguiers on King Street and get five pounds of the kind I generally get – the long flat thick plugs and if it will not make the parcel too large send it up with the boots. It will reach me I expect some time in January and will last a long time. I will have lots & lots of time in the long winter evenings to smoke and read. My reading will I expect however be confined to medical literature as I have none but medical works – and probably there will be none other in Edmonton. Thank Jack ever so much for “93” & “Nancy”. I have read them and they are now going through the camp. “93” I intend reading again and trying to find out something about the numerous names mentioned therein. I have been reading a French novel called “Bibi-Tapin”. It is well written, and I find that with the exception of a phrase or a work now and then that I can understand it very well. The story consists of about 300 large double column pages about the size of an ordinary school atlas, it has a good many wood plates in it but never the less it is quite a mighty work. I have just opened my ink bottle and spilled my ink. I managed to get this one penful and suppose I must say goodnight tomorrow I will go (Sunday Aug 16) and borrow some.

Saturday, July 18, 2009

Grants Farm, On the Boundry Line. July 18th 1874.

Lizzie My darling

I arrived in Dufferin about 10 o’clock landed just on the bank of the River in the mud & weeds – presently some of the aborigines came down and soon one or two of the M.P. on the sick lists & now convalescent – Capt. Clark & the Paymaster & one other officer were going down to Winnipeg on the boat. I saw & was introduced to Capt. Clark. He does not follow the force but remains at Fort Garry. It was not long before I met Mr. Chapineau the guide, he is a tall lissome fellow, quite handsome & deaf. Mrs. Ford Cissy’s friend had told me of him. A wagon & two teams had been left behind for me. I took on all my baggage tho’ warned that 10 lbs was the limit allowed. I have no horse as yet. I am going to ride some to day however – to get used to it. We have to wear a badge consisting of a lue & red ribbon tied on our hats or around our arms as a protection against the Sioux. Commissioner Cameron of the Boundary Survey has concluded a treaty with them. And this badge is a sign – the force has gone on and is now about 50 miles ahead of us, we expect to catch up to them in two or three days. On our way up we drove one pair of horses in our wagon & led the others, one pair had the misfortune to break loose two or three times and we had to send back for them – which delayed us considerably. I do not know yet what our direction, our address will be, but think that if anything will reach us a letter to Nevitt Assistant Surgeon N.W. Mounted Police Dufferin. We are taking on a lot of letters to them now, also a large mail for the Boundary Survey & such opportunities will arise during the course of the summer. The Police expect to get back to Garry for the winter – a portion being left at Fort Ellier Pely & Edmonton – during the winter a monthly mail will be established between Garry & the outposts. We have along with us ten days rations hard tack pork tea & sugar, with a few boxes of sardines, and a gallon of whiskey. Chapman takes this along & he ought to know what to take – it is vile stuff. The mosquitoes have not yet been excessively troublesome but enough to keep me awake in the wagon yesterday evening. Goodbye for the present. We are just about starting 10 miles beyond the Pembina Mountains about 40 miles from here is our destination for tonight. Goodbye – goodbye.