May 22nd

I slept well and sound last night but wakened up about sun rise and from then until 9 o’clock I dozed and dreamed – I thought that you and I were taking a voyage down the Old Man’s River – we began way up in the mountains and came down running rapids, shooting immense waterfalls in hourly danger from the Indians, from wild beasts and from sunken rocks. Finally I got hurt and the boat drifted helplessly along until I gave the paddle to you and from thence all dangers and hardship seemed past – we joined the Belly River, then the Saskatchewan then Lake Winnipeg, our boat growing larger and larger – passing Lake Winnipeg – we came to Superior and down the chain of Lakes to the St. Lawrence and so to the Sea. I thought immense crowds came to the banks and shores to see us pass – wherever we stopped thousands of sick and lame came to be cured – and it was you that healed them and to you were vociferated the thanks and blessings of the thankful crowd. I was lying down in the boat and looking at you so pleased and happy at seeing them look to you for help, and I thought you did not know that it was I that healed them. At last we came to England, and I took my degrees there – still every one seemed to think it was you who took them. Finally I thought I died – and you who had tended me so kindly and carefully died too – we were not buried because we were alone on the broad ocean, but we took wings and flew to the land and lived together on a high and lonely mountain, and taking long flights from there we accomplished a vast deal of good in many ways. And then we both rose to heaven and I was refused admittance – but by your prayers they let me in – and having entered we were exalted high above the other angels. I never seemed now to think that I owed it all to you, but we were happy so “happy for ever and ever ------Was it not a queer dream?

Well to return to facts. Capt. Winder and I left here taking some lunch, at 7.30 a.m. The voyage down the river was delightful it was a warm bright sunshiny day – the trees lining the banks were all so beautiful and green. Quantities of ducks and geese started up from each side of us, but as we were obliged to be down at Fort Kipp as soon as possible and did not know within twenty miles how far it was we did not stop to hunt them. Some of the cut banks presented a most curious conformation in their strata – all in wavy lines – we saw some coal and a great deal of sandstone – in places the prairie 100 or 150 ft. above us had sunk down to the level of the river in huge land slips – the course of the river is very tortuous – in some places very swift rapids – but generally very free from rocks. We stopped at 11 o’clock in a nice little clump of bushes and had our lunch, it was a real picnic. Our lunch however consisted of nothing but some bread and cold bacon and a cup of the river water – we were quite used to both and very hungry too so it tasted very good. We stopped for about an hour, to rest and have a smoke and then proceeded down. A high wind had now sprung up and in some places bothered us by blowing us from one side of the river to the other. In one of the most dangerous places on the river where the channel was narrowed by huge rocks on either side and sunken ones in the middle and the current ran [ ? ] and foaming down like a mill race – the wind was so strong that blowing dead ahead us and we aided by the current and paddling with all our might remained stationary. Gradually we began to descend and at last got down into a sheltered nook and then the stream took us down like a flash. We arrived at Fort Kipp about 2 o’clock, found our horses not yet arrived – they came in about 3 and after feeding them grain and hay – we left at 5 o’clock and arrived at Fort McLeod at 6.30. I rode old Satan, who is now full of life and beginning to get fat he canters beautifully his trot is rather rough. He is a fine old chap. I am going to show him your photograph to see if he will remember all that I have told him.

I had sick parade at eight o’clock last evening after we came in, and then retired early being as you may well imagine very tired.

Fort McLeod, May 17th, 1875

My dearest Lizzie

After the Col. left yesterday afternoon we all felt rather lonesome, and spent most of the time speculating as to the various causes which may have called him away, also as to the date of his probable return. After dinner Capt. Winder who is now in command asked me to walk down with him to the river. So we went down and found that it had not risen any today – it has been rather chilly today so I suppose the snow upon the mountains was checked in its melting. Then we went to where the boats were moored and took a little row in them to try the rapids and then being impressed with the calm stillness of the scene we broke into song and the dreary lonely silence was broken by the voice of harmony, the gurgling of the rapid river forming a running accompaniment.

Today we have been engaged in planting some cotton wood trees in front of our quarters. If they live and take root they will form an useful and ornamental adjunct to our quarters.

Conrad’s second wagon came in from the train today and say [?] that it will be here tomorrow as it camped to night this side of the Belly River.

Fort Benton September 24th 1874

Dearest Lizzie

It is now a long time since I wrote to you. I am glad to say that I still continue as well as ever and are getting stronger & fatter every day. I never was better in any life. I am brown as an Indian. My nose I firmly believe to be made after the fashion of an onion, the successive layers of skin that have peeled off would make a bushel of onions. We have pushed on from the Cypress Hills, sometimes with water sometimes not – grass was every where scarce – the weather is as fine as weather could be. On the last of September I purchased a horse, large, well formed, black, and have given him the high sounding title of “Satan” at one time he was the finest horse in the force – his only vice that he shied. Poor fellow what with no oats no grass no water – I am afraid he is a gone horse. He carried me very well to the Sweet Grass Hills – and is now quietly grazing. He is gentle knows his name & will follow me like a dog. Our choice of guides was most unfortunate not one of them knew the country through which we passed, our course was run by the compass & Palliser’s map – whichs not correct – we struck the South Saskatchewan a day sooner than we expected, the guide told us it was the Forks – the Bow & Belly Rivers – we knew better – four or five days after this we did strike the Bow River – in fact went beyond it & it was by accident that we discovered it – it is a lonely desert place one island with a few trees on it – high banks and not a soul near it – no grass – no road – we travelled 15 or 20 miles up the Belly River and sent a party up the Bow River for 80 miles – they found a party a Indians on the war path – put no fort[,] no road[,] no whiskey smugglers[.] we then retraced our steps and went south & struck the Boundary line at the Sweet Grass Hills or 3 Buttes. Here we were to pass the winter – two troops went on to Garry & two to remain and build huts for the winter & Col. French, Major McLeod & myself came down with a few carts to Fort Benton to get supplies. Our plans have slightly changed since we came here. We will now probably winter somewhere on the Belly River. Your letters if directed to me at Fort Benton will reach me – we will have a mail about once a month, perhaps not quite so often. I believe there is a settlement of Half Breeds near where we will be stationed & I can get them to make moccasins etc. for me. The Col. found a letter here for him directing him to make his headquarters at Fort Pelly – we will be much better off than they. One day while travelling towards the Buttes, I went off the line of march to hunt. I got quite lost – did not know where the trail was could see nothing but the bleak dreary wilderness – my companion a little dog had left me. I climbed a hill & looked out then another then another could see nothing the Buttes I could see - & had determined to make for them a matter of about ten miles. I came to this determination and though I would like some dinner so I shot at an antelope and missed him and hunting after him I saw what I thought was a heard of buffalo near a lake. I made for that and found the train stopping for dinner – they were just moving off. I got no dinner but was only too thankful to get in to mind that. I felt so lonely out on the prairie that I felt justified in opening your letter and my darling I can only thank most fervently the good God who put the thought of writing it in your head. You have no idea [(]can have none[)] of the immense comfort it was to me. You know I carry your little testament with me always. I seldom have time in the mornings to read it and at night we have no candles so on the march I get ahead of the troops sit down & read until they come up. I have looked at your dear handwriting again and again, but have never opened the envelope until then on the prairie lost and alone. Tell Mannie Cameron if he writes to direct to Fort Benton. I want you to ask him a question or two for me. No.1 Where is the supply of Sulphate of Alum obtained for the United States and Canada to what uses is it applied & is it expensive?

I must close before I have finished half of what I wish to say but the mail closes at 9 o’clock and it now wants but a few moments of that. We saw on our way down here swarms of Buffalo more than 50000 in one herd the plains for miles as far as we could see were black with them – we passed right thro’ their midst.

Capt. Miles wished me to say that he would like his wife to know he is well and on his road back to Fort Garry (as he thinks) – give my love to your Father Mother and all – Remember me to the Slotesburgs & give my kind regards to the Camerons.

Goodbye my darling Lizzie.
Yours forever
Barrie.

Camp Aug. 2nd 1874

Since the last opportunity of letting you know of my whereabouts at Rocher Percée we have been carrying out the programme. After leaving Roche Percée which we did on Wednesday afternoon we made a march of 10 miles to Wood End so called on account of the wood there being the last for a hundred of miles. We camped there the next day Thursday & cooked 3 or 4 days rations. Started from Wood End at 5 in the morning and camped on the banks of a stream – Saturdays march took us 28 miles farther West and we camped near some water in the open Prairie. We remain here over Sunday.

At Roche Percée I made application for my full kit & a horse but could obtain nothing – except blankets and a saddle so perforce I had to go in a wagon. At Wood End – we has a general muster. I took the first opportunity of spotting a horse but could not get it for my use – owing to its being required for a draught horse. I have now given up in despair the hope of obtaining a horse until we get to Wood Mountain. Rather a come down is it not? I like Kittson very much, he speaks English with a decidedly French accent. He is half brother of the Harry Kittson I knew in Lumoxville. The chap also went to school there, but before my time. He was in private practice at Berthier and recollects seeing & meeting Saida while she was there. Queer is it not how the world goes round – and one meets with unexpected people in out of the way places.

The man whom I am to have as Hospital Sergeant had a cousin at Sunnyville – a very clever fellow who used to stand always at the head of his form. The man is a Frenchman has studied medicine & at Edmonton will be invaluable among the French with whom I will there be brought into contact.

The weather has been strange in the extreme yet not altogether unpleasant, warm during the day with an exception now and again. The nights as a rule very cold, at Roche Percée the first night I was there it stood a 32º & ice was found on the river – and since then I do not think the minimum temperature during the night has ever been above 40º.

Since leaving Wood End we have seen no wood – but what we have brought with us and expect to see none for a day or two yet we are now about 6 miles from Wood End. Just fancy seeing 100 miles without a piece of wood so large as a lead pencil. We are now approaching the Buffalo country.. living animals are beginning to be seen. Buffalo skulls & skeletons more numerous & apparently fresher than they were. In lieu of Candlesticks we use one of the vertebra of a buffalo putting the candle into its spinal foramer. The Colonel went ahead the other morning with his shot gun and got 12 ducks for the mess. It was a very great change from the salt pork. I am attached to the Staff with exactly what work I cannot say. I dine at the Staff mess – and eat heartily too. Our tea last night consisted of tea – (no sugar, no milk) bread (no butter) molasses – fried duck, & fried pork. Breakfast this morning being Sunday was later & we had a swell breakfast Porridge & molasses & milk, coffee, duck, Bacon, Bread, butter & sugar for our Coffee. I do not know that I have increased much in size height or weight. But I know that I am feeling better than I have felt since I was at the Hospital.

By the By did you hear what Mrs. McCollum thought of my photograph? I forgot to ask you in the last, but make up for it now. Forgive me my dear Lizzie for not being more prepared for our utter separation or for not preparing you more for it. But I had no idea we should have so few opportunities for sending letters. I thought surely that at least twice or 3 times a month. I should have been able to hear from you and write to you – but I see now that it must be for less than that. I expect to send this from Wood Mountain unless I meet a portion of the Boundary commission going East when I will turn it over to them. In about 3 weeks we expect to reach Bow River and then our line of march will be virtually thro’ an enemy’s country – as the whiskey distillers will hardly regard us in a friendly aspect. Our direction will then be due North towards Edmonton. I do not know if the whole force will go towards Edmonton & perhaps the portion intending to winter in Garry will leave us at the South Saskatchewan & proceed as directly East towards Garry as it is possible for them to do so. Leaving us to find our way through the Blackfoot country to Fort Edmonton. Most likely the latter as it will probably be late in the Season and they will be obliged to hurry on. In January there will be one mail by Edmonton by dog sleigh – by what is known as the Hudson Bay Packet. Perhaps the Government may send a second one but it would be as well not to depend upon that in any way as it is only a surmise and has no foundation whatever.

I have been examining the water that we are forced to drink – with a microscope & there are animals in it that look like huge fleas – nice it is not – Some of them are not animalculae but are visible individually to the naked eye. However when boiled and tea made with them you can’t distinguish the animals from tea leaves so it doesn’t matter – Julien the artist is taking a microscope drawing of one now to serve to the “News” on the first opportunity.

I found out this evening what will be the most probable course of the expedition. We are now camping just on the 10th meridian of Longitude a few miles north of the 49th parallel of Latitude our course will be north west trending slightly to the West, to a lake called Old Woman’s Lake. Before we get there a party is to be sent off due west to Wordy Mountain (we will go north to that place) to get pemmican & will join us at Camp on Old Woman’s Lake – from thence our course will be west to Bow River at the Junction of which with the Belly River which is on the 112º of Longitude, we will do whatever is to be done & then the force will divide, the Garry troops retracing their steps to Old Woman’s camp & thence directly East of Fort Ellice & Garry, our detachment proceeding north-ward to Edmonton.

Col. McLeod[sic] & Capt. Walker are to take over the one leaving to Woody Mountain, and to the latter I am going to entrust this letter, with the hopes that the Boundary Commission will have an opportunity of communicating with the outer world before I will. I hope so sincerely. Now I want you to take good care of yourself and take plenty of exercise. I want you to look well and as tho’ you had enjoyed yourself while I was away at the wars. What did you do this evening? I took a walk as I said I would – all by myself out on the desolate prairie, yet it did not seem so desolate or so dreary for you seemed to be with me. I could almost hear you speak. A most beautiful sunset lightened up the west. The sky all day being dark and grey with dull heavy looking clouds. But the glories of the sunset made up for the dreary day.

Tomorrow morning reveille sounds at 3.30 and the force is to move off at 5. Pretty early hours eh? Last night two of the men went out about dusk to shoot ducks, night came on & they had not made their appearance, We could hear shots now and again at some distance in the marsh. They were to all intents and purposes lost. We called and sounded the bugles raised lanterns as high as possible and finally sent up a rocket, this last was too much for the horses who were hobbled in the marsh, they all took fright and began to stampede, such a rushing of feet, the very ground shook and in the moonlight a dense dark moving mass could be seen in the marsh, fortunately their hampered condition & the energetic endeavours of the picquet stopped them else we might have had a serious loss. The men in a couple of hours came in all right and avowed that they were not lost – but only shooting ducks. However they were placed under arrest and are not likely to attempt duck shooting in the dark again, at least not in a hurry. There are no Indians round here, the country would never afford them sustenance so my hair is safe for a time, till we get into a better country. It is now getting pretty late and I am tired and have to get up early in the morning so I will bid you good-night and if I have time will add a few lines to this. God bless you my darling. I am your own.

Barrie.